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  #16  
Old 01-14-2009, 08:38 AM
71sx 71sx is offline
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Naptha is a petroleum distillate. On a hard poly finish it might not be harmful if applied and wiped back off but I wouldn't use it on an unfinished fingerboard!
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  #17  
Old 01-14-2009, 04:13 PM
Coffeecup Coffeecup is offline
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WD40, I think, has a fish oil base, not to say that there may not be hydrocarbons elsewhere in the can. I wouldn't have thought of using it on a musical instrument.

There's a glue remover product here in Australia called De-Solv-it which is citrus based rather than petroleum. I haven't tried it on a guitar but it's certainly been gentle on other surfaces I've tried.
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:23 AM
71sx 71sx is offline
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Per the WD-40 website:

"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."

As an inveterate WD-40 abuser I can tell you that if you use it on unfinished wood, it will leave a greasy stain.
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:35 AM
rbbambino rbbambino is offline
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I use Ronsonol lighter fluid. I've taken off pickguards and cleaned all my guitars with it.
I thought you guys were talking about going to the GOO (grand ole opry) when I saw the subject glue remover.. hmm what a let down.
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  #20  
Old 01-15-2009, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbbambino View Post
I use Ronsonol lighter fluid. I've taken off pickguards and cleaned all my guitars with it.
Hi bambino...
I'm assuming you are aware that lighter fluid is Naptha (which also used to be marketed as White Gas or Coleman Campstove Fuel).

When I'm buying lighter fluids, I always check the ingredient list - and if it has other stuff besides naptha in it, I look at the other brands.
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  #21  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:53 AM
broknprism broknprism is offline
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Excellent point. I didn't know that, but probably should have. I was thinking more about use on a raw fingerboard than on a poly finish, but you're right, and I just learned something (besides "Don't spout off when you don't have the facts!" ; )
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2009, 01:53 PM
rbbambino rbbambino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljguitar View Post
Hi bambino...
I'm assuming you are aware that lighter fluid is Naptha (which also used to be marketed as White Gas or Coleman Campstove Fuel).

When I'm buying lighter fluids, I always check the ingredient list - and if it has other stuff besides naptha in it, I look at the other brands.
Thanks ljguitar. Yes I do know that. I could buy naptha by the gallon, but I find the nice little containers of Ronsonol (Ronson) lighter fluid very convenient and you really don't need much of it, unless you bath your guitars in it However, since you mentioned it.. I took a look at the ingredients of the lighter fluid.. There are none listed. I guess that tells me that it is pure naptha or someone got paid off. Anyway, I've been using it for years and it hasn't curled my hair or anything else yet.
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  #23  
Old 01-15-2009, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbbambino View Post
Thanks ljguitar. Yes I do know that. I could buy naptha by the gallon, but I find the nice little containers of Ronsonol (Ronson) lighter fluid very convenient and you really don't need much of it...
Hi bam...
Yeah, I figured you did. The lighter fluid bottles fit my shelf better than a gallon can...
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  #24  
Old 01-15-2009, 05:26 PM
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I just thought i would weigh in on this point.

There is a product called , Goof Off... it is not Goo Gone which is

citrus like.. this stuff is zylene and smells like napha,, but very

caustic on a guitar finish (esp nitrocellulose_

I used it once to remove a pickguard, and it crazed the finish badly,

so be very careful not to use Goof Off.

Rick
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  #25  
Old 01-15-2009, 06:09 PM
raulb raulb is offline
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Do not use naptha!!! Or kerosene, gasoline, MEK, any petroleum based solvents.

Don't use WD-40 (for anything in my opinion). It attracts dirt.

Don't use Armor All, it will dry it out.

Lemon Pledge is very good. I recommend it highly. Probably even for your fingerboard (?).

Goo Gone is probably OK. I have used it in a lot of different applications like on fiberglass (even fabric covered) sailplanes, wood (finished and unfinished), even on my skin to get rid of medical tape residue, and I have never seen any problems. Never used it on a guitar though and I would not recommend it for your fingerboard.

I have also had very good luck using Gibson's guitar polish to remove the residue from the adhesive off an external piezo pick-up on my Martin (nitro finish) mandolin.

On finished wood, I would recommend the most benign product available.

On your fingerboard, Taylor recommends using steel wool and then linseed oil. Linseed oil??? You'll have a stinky guitar in my opinion, but that's what Taylor recommends.
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  #26  
Old 01-15-2009, 06:54 PM
ronmac ronmac is offline
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Here's a picture of Frank Ford (frets.com) using naptha to clean residue off a guitar




You can look at the rest of the article here.

BTW, there is silicone in WD40, so I wouldn't let it close to anything guitar related.
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  #27  
Old 01-15-2009, 09:24 PM
vhuang168 vhuang168 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgregg48 View Post
I just thought i would weigh in on this point.

There is a product called , Goof Off... it is not Goo Gone which is

citrus like.. this stuff is zylene and smells like napha,, but very

caustic on a guitar finish (esp nitrocellulose_

I used it once to remove a pickguard, and it crazed the finish badly,

so be very careful not to use Goof Off.

Rick
I used Goo-off to remove pg goop on my guitar. But it was poly finish and did a great job. So it depends on the finish I guess.

Vincent
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  #28  
Old 01-15-2009, 10:00 PM
Crazyquilt Crazyquilt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronmac View Post
Here's a picture of Frank Ford (frets.com) using naptha to clean residue off a guitar
Dan Erlewine also recommends naphtha, although he also says to try spit first -- basically, he advises to go from least caustic (saliva) on up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ronmac View Post
BTW, there is silicone in WD40, so I wouldn't let it close to anything guitar related.
Silicone is a problem because not only will it attract dirt, but it can form a very stubborn film which can make later repairs more difficult. And if it seeps into bare wood...
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  #29  
Old 01-16-2009, 09:37 AM
zb0430 zb0430 is offline
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I use good ol' fashioned elbow grease and water, and a super fine steel wool for the unfinished fretboard. Polishes frets at the same time. Next, to condition the fretboard, I use natural boiled linseed oil. Works 1,000 times better than lemon oil I used to use.

I've used naptha to clean an ebony fretboard, and honestly... It wasn't very effective for me. Still required as much elbow grease as a damp cloth. So why risk it, when there is so much debate... That's the conclusion I came to.

As always, YMMV. I'd highly recommend boiled linseed oil to seal and condition ebony and rosewood fretboards, though.
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  #30  
Old 04-08-2010, 11:21 AM
brian13 brian13 is offline
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Yeah I tried to use Goof Off to, and it left big splotchy marks on my J-30's body. Ridiculously frustrating. Any help on how to get rid of them? I think it removed some of the finish or something, but I rubbed it down with Denatured Alcohol and it made it a little bit better. But I'd still like to make it look better. Helpppp???
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