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#16
08-04-2015, 05:38 AM
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That brace on the left looks like there is a gap between the brace and the top, near the end. Can't see any evidence of a crack in the top on the inside, so it may be covered by the kerfing. If so, that's a good thing, and all that may be needed is to inject some glue into the area and clamp the fold in the top down. The Kerfing will support it.
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Warren My website: http://draudio56.wix.com/warren-bendler "It's hard...calming the Beatle inside of me." 
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#17
08-04-2015, 06:11 AM
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Yup that brace popped loose. Interesting argument here as to weather it's better to tuck braces in or leave them exposed. Since these are tucked in the brace has held it's position but since it's tucked in it will be just a bit more difficult to repair, not much though.
From the looks of the exterior pics to my eye it seems as if that crack should be visible from the inside, that it extends passed the linings but it's hard to see in that pick. You may have to get in closer. I do however believe i can see that crack that runs parallel to the grain line between the lower bracing. That one will be easy to fix.
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#18
08-04-2015, 06:26 AM
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Ahhh yes...
The pic was so big it didn't fill my screen and I didn't even see the damage on the edge - On my screen I only saw the crack where his finger was pointing.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240
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#19
08-04-2015, 06:32 AM
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Great info; this discussion spurs my thought processes. While I want to hope the luthier can take care of it for a reasonable price, I'm still thinking about how I could approach it if that's not the case. So tell me if I'm too misguided... Dependent on the precise location of the crack in relation to the kerfing, I could-
1.) Glue back to the kerfing and clamp it (and then second I assume re-glue my brace). No one seems to think I would need to put a stint/patch behind it in that case? 2.) Cut part of the kerfing and shape a piece of wood wide enough to act as a patch behind the horiz. part of the crack and support the top, clamp and glue, then address the brace. The hardest part of the second method would be seeing and working/cutting inside the guitar As for clamping the loose brace or any needed kerfing/stint, appears I could- a.)Use a really unreasonably long clamp from the soundhole, or: b.)Clamp the crack down externally, and then use some sort of expanding joint inside to keep pressure on it
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#20
08-04-2015, 08:47 AM
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One trick I use to clamp stuff inside is to cut a piece of 3/8" rubber automotive hose to size and wedge that between the back and the brace you want to clamp. They make internal screw jacks for this purpose but why spend the money when you can make something?
Regarding supporting the crack, if you determine it is under the kerfing, I think the kerfing should support it. If the crack is outside the kerfing I would remove the kerfing in that area, and shave the kerfing down by the thickness of the support wood you want to add, then glue in the support wood and kerfing section. You could really use anything for the support wood. StewMac sells spruce patch wood for tops, you could use that.
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Warren My website: http://draudio56.wix.com/warren-bendler "It's hard...calming the Beatle inside of me."
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#21
08-29-2015, 10:01 AM
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Not to leave this hanging, I found a repair person able to fix it for a reasonable price; still visible due to staining from the crack being old, but not detectable by feel... Curious to take a peek inside when I change the strings and see by what means this was accomplished. Two braces were actually loose, apparently...
Sounds great anyway... Well, for a Mitchell 12 string, I can't say it sounds bad at all  Needs a bit of setup work, but action is fairly low and it doesn't buzz at least. Like playing with an old friend I never had  Always glad to save something rather than trash it.
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#22
08-31-2015, 10:18 AM
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He did a nice job.
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Warren My website: http://draudio56.wix.com/warren-bendler "It's hard...calming the Beatle inside of me."
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#24
09-02-2015, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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#25
09-02-2015, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Selected the person I did because he was up-front about the amount of time it would take (took less than half of the stated eight weeks) and was cognizant of making me aware how cost would be allocated in a specific way. He further sold himself by being eager to talk/converse in a responsive knowledgeable way about the problem and guitar in general (I've had a few bad experiences on other guitars where repair people preferred to dictate to me without question or explanation, or felt some need to be secretive). If you're in the OC/LA area, I can PM you the name of the repair person.
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#26
09-12-2015, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Im in the NYC area, but i appreciate the offer. Regardless, so far i ve been fixing all my guitars myself (eclectric, flamenca, 12 strings, bass, Yuke, sitar) - which makes me understand even better why people would go to a luthier - once and for all
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