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Old 03-29-2017, 05:03 AM
Singlegato Singlegato is offline
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Default Shave down bridge, re-drill bridge pin holes?

Hey everyone! So I picked up this guitar guitar at a guitar "garage sale" if you will. It's a hand made German guitar from 1961. It was produced at a lutherie that wasn't necessarily churning out perfect guitars, but I have to admit that the sound is really fantastic. My last issue is with the very high action. This, as you can see from the pictures, is due to the face that the neck is in an even plane with the guitar top. I've shaved the saddle down as far as it can go and the action is still ridiculous. My only thought is to remove the bridge and shave it down from the bottom, install a new saddle and hope that I can get things closer to normal. There is another issue, and while it actually doesn't hamper the playability, and I didn't even notice it at first, the strings are not in line with the neck. They are OK at the nut and then move closer to the edge of the neck on the low E as you get towards the saddle. The bridge as it is doesn't look like it has pulled up or ever been re-glued. It's quite solid. The sound really is great and I'm not thrilled about having to patch up 6 holes and basically drill new ones 2mm to the right. Ideas here? Am I missing anything? Should I just shave down the bridge, re-glue and deal with the weird string placement? Pictures to describe everything are below.





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Old 03-29-2017, 06:25 AM
redir redir is offline
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Typically you only shave down bridges on cheap guitars where the cost of a neck reset out values the guitar. Also you would normally shave it down from the top, no need to remove the bridge. If you sand off the bottom the wings would become to thin. However by the looks of that bridge you could probably do it that way and in fact would probably be easier since the saddle slot is so shallow.

Having said that, since you also have the neck/string alignment issue this guitar really needs a neck reset. My guess is that it would be cost prohibitive and worth more then the guitar. So really what you choose to do depends on the perceived value of the guitar. Is there a label on it?

The body joint is very unusual for a guitar. Looks more like a lute.
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:31 AM
charles Tauber charles Tauber is offline
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Another possible option is to add a second fingerboard on top of the existing one so that the geometry is typical of a guitar, rather than a lute. A second fingerboard will raise the playing surface relative to the bridge. That wouldn't likely be too difficult to do.
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Old 03-29-2017, 08:33 AM
Singlegato Singlegato is offline
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@redir
Thanks for the tips. Yes, I believe a neck reset isn't quite worth it. There is a small following for these guitars in good condition, but I'm not quite sure it warrants that. Shaving down the top of the bridge would definitely be the least labor intensive out of all the options. Also @charles In regards to adding or replacing the current fretboard with a new one...I've thought about this as the frets are starting to poke out of the sides and could use a re-crown. But, as you both can see in the pictures, the fretboard actually stops 2.5 frets short of the body and the body is actually extended or merged into the fretboard. Changing this would kind of leave some unsightly mess below and definitely change the originality of the instrument. The pictures you asked for are attached below:




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Old 03-29-2017, 08:34 AM
pops pops is offline
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The bridge looks very thick and could be shaved down some, you would need to deepen the saddle slot. I think I would try this first. As was said I would do it from the top and not take the bridge off.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:00 AM
redir redir is offline
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That is a very interesting looking guitar. I had thought about adding a fretboard as well. It would work and solve the problem of both action and the string alignment but as you mention it would diminish the originality of the design and I have to say I rather like it even though it's very unusual.

The problem with removing the bridge and filling the holes is that then you would have to do some very difficult finish touch ups around the bridge where it was moved off of the original foot print. You could always make a new bridge that is slightly larger or even one the same size with the holes offset of center.

You could also just keyhole slot the bridge to nudge the strings over a little bit and just deal with it.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:12 AM
Singlegato Singlegato is offline
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Keyholing the bridge pin slots slightly off-center is brilliant! This would move them to at least a more acceptable spacing. So it looks like shaving down the top of the bridge in addition to the keyholing is not only the best method of action...it requires the least amount of work! Thanks! You guys rock! The guitar really is special. And in DADGAD it's an absolute blast!
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:37 AM
Ned Milburn Ned Milburn is offline
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I'd just rip the bridge and build a replacement, with holes in the appropriate position. Then, some fretwork. Piece o' cake!
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:44 AM
Halcyon/Tinker Halcyon/Tinker is offline
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Stewmac makes a great tool for capping bridge pin holes in the bridge plate if you choose to fill and redrill.

If you try to remove the bridge and replace it in the right spot for string alignment, it will not align with the current finish footprint.

That fingerboard treatment looks like a neck reset would be a real pain.

So, as 'improper' as it is, I also think a top down bridge shave is in order.

Measure how much you want the action to go down at the 12th fret, and make sure to take double that amount or a bit more from the bridge to give you a bit of wiggle room.

A cozy way to avoid filling and redrilling the bridge pins holes is to simply slot the saddle like you would slot a nut. If you do, remember to start your new saddle a little taller as the strings will be dug into it a bit...
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Old 03-29-2017, 01:03 PM
redir redir is offline
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The problem with the top down bridge shaving is that saddle slot which is not very deep. I just use a chisel to deepen slots when necessary but you have to have experience in doing it. It would be easier in this case since it's a thru-slot. Of course there are expensive jigs for routers that will do this in a hurry and accurate too but I don't see the OP dropping the cash on such a thing.

The bridge does imho look to be a bit beefy so it couldn't hurt to take it off from the bottom too and then make some properly thinned out wings.
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:07 PM
dgt178 dgt178 is offline
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does that guitar have a truss rod? an adjustment may lower the action some.
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