Removing an epoxied glued nut?

[Brushwood]

Any suggestions on how to remove a nut on a Peavey made Composite Acoustics GX carbon fiber guitar that’s been glued in with Titebond epoxy? I’d like to either remove the nut and slide it over a bit towards the edge of the bass side for easier thumb fretting or replace and carve/slot a new nut altogether for the same needs. I was having an issue removing it and called the Peavey to see if epoxy was used at the factory to glue the nut in and was told it was. Also, what kind of cost would I expect to have a luthier take care of the removal…if it’s even possible?
Thanks!

[phavriluk]

I suggest calling the builder back and asking whether the nut was (a) glued in like they were building a bridge or (b) a dot of glue was used on the fingerboard edge to prevent the nut from falling out during string changes. I suspect (b) but ya gotta ask. If it's (b) then I think a tap from the side with a pin punch and it's done.

I think a repair tech won't be giving a firm estimate, but a bill for time and materials. The job can vary a bunch from trivial to heavy equipment and no one knows how much was involved until it's done.

[redir]

What have you tried so far?

If it is finished in place then take a very sharp razor knife and scratch a line in the finish around the base of the nut. Then using a small block of wood about the width of the nut place the wood on the face of the nut on the side of the fretbard and using a hammer try and tap the nut loose.

If it's truly glued in place for good then you may have to destructively remove it and make a new one. I've yet to see a nut that cannot be removed though. Sometimes they do break though if they are really glued in.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

I suggest calling the builder back and asking whether the nut was (a) glued in like they were building a bridge or (b) a dot of glue was used on the fingerboard edge to prevent the nut from falling out during string changes. I suspect (b) but ya gotta ask. If it's (b) then I think a tap from the side with a pin punch and it's done.

Before I called Peavey, I did my usual of scoring around the nut with a box cutter blade. I then tried to tap it loose with a piece of small wood against the fretboard side of the nut using a small hammer. It wouldn’t budge. I also saw what looked like cured glue around much of the nut. That’s when I called the maker. The old timer who I talked with said it was Titebond Epoxy and it’s best that I try not to mess with it anymore.

[Fathand]

I've not heard of Titebond brand epoxy but most epoxies release with heat. Try a soldering iron or gun, carefully. Stop if your nut starts to burn or melt. Then try tapping it out. Works on epoxied frets.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by Fathand

I've not heard of Titebond brand epoxy but most epoxies release with heat. Try a soldering iron or gun, carefully. Stop if your nut starts to burn or melt. Then try tapping it out. Works on epoxied frets.

I appreciate the suggestion, but if I were to heat the nut more than I initially did with a hairdryer, I’m concerned about also potentially melting/damaging the carbon fiber guitar it’s attached to.

[TheGITM]

Time to break out the dremel...

[Howard Klepper]

The glue that Titebond describes as "epoxy" in its literature is not epoxy at all (and they don't say "epoxy" on the bottle). It's a fast drying PVA glue. Apparently some copy writer wanted to make it sound more macho.

Give it a good whack with a wood block from the fretboard side, as you were doing, but with a heavier hammer. But as with any glued nut, if they glued it to the neck or if there is too much headstock veneer behind it, you have a chance of cracking some wood.

[peter.coombe]

I have come across one nut that refuses to loosen no matter what. Tried whacking, tried heat, tried steam. In the end I got the Demel out and ground it into little pieces. That did the trick. I would suggest you do the same.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

The glue that Titebond describes as "epoxy" in its literature is not epoxy at all (and they don't say "epoxy" on the bottle). It's a fast drying PVA glue. Apparently some copy writer wanted to make it sound more macho.

Give it a good whack with a wood block from the fretboard side, as you were doing, but with a heavier hammer. But as with any glued nut, if they glued it to the neck or if there is too much headstock veneer behind it, you have a chance of cracking some wood.

I’m going to call Peavey again on Monday to confirm the glue used. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s actually Loctite epoxy and I mistakenly think he said Titebond. I use a dab of Titebond Original when I’ve tinkered with previous guitar nut placement or carving a new nut for wider string spacing and this seems like a different animal. I’ve whacked it pretty good and nothing.

[TheGITM]

Originally Posted by Brushwood

I’m going to call Peavey again on Monday to confirm the glue used. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s actually Loctite epoxy and I mistakenly think he said Titebond. I use a dab of Titebond Original when I’ve tinkered with previous guitar nut placement or carving a new nut for wider string spacing and this seems like a different animal. I’ve whacked it pretty good and nothing.

Just curious... at this point, what difference does it make? You say you can't get it to budge. You've tried heat. You've banged on it. Whatever Peavey says isn't going to change that fact, right?

If you want to do this yourself, I think you only have a few options.

You can try more heat. You want it hot enough to loosen whatever adhesive is there but not hurt the finish. That can be a fine line.

You can use a small drill bit and try to break it up and hopefully get out 'chunks' and then clean up the slot.

You can try use a small drill bit to create 1 or 2 small holes and then setup a steam nozzle to try and loosen it, much like you would to remove a guitar neck for a reset.

You can try a Dremel-type tool and try to route it out.

You can try various combinations of the above.

Just my $0.02... and it's worth every penny!

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by peter.coombe

I have come across one nut that refuses to loosen no matter what. Tried whacking, tried heat, tried steam. In the end I got the Demel out and ground it into little pieces. That did the trick. I would suggest you do the same.

Dremel is out and within reach.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by TheGITM

Time to break out the dremel...

Yep…maybe so.

[Brushwood]

Originally Posted by TheGITM

Just curious... at this point, what difference does it make? You say you can't get it to budge. You've tried heat. You've banged on it. Whatever Peavey says isn't going to change that fact, right?

If you want to do this yourself, I think you only have a few options.

Just my $0.02... and it's worth every penny!

Good point and thank you for the option suggestions.

[Quickstep193]

Can you fill the old slots and re-slot it?

I just had that done on a guitar with a stubborn to remove nut. Mine was finished after the nut was installed and the finish built up a substantial fillet. Removing it would have been risky and the filling and re-slotting worked perfectly.