#1
|
|||
|
|||
Archtop Guitar
I'm starting my 4th archtop guitar. The first two are here:
The 3rd is the same as the second one, except with flamed maple binding and a different finish colour - brown burst. The 4th one will be different in the following ways: -16" no cutaway body, 2.5" sides -Port Orford Cedar soundboard -Claro Walnut back and sides -Two side sound ports -MOP purfling -Shellac finish |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Here's the concept for this guitar:
Progress so far: Thanks for looking. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
A few more:
Cheers. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
The first two are beautiful, I am pretty sure how this one will turn out. I would encourage you to take lots of pictures but it already looks like you have that covered. I am sure you will inspire some people (looking sheepish as I type) in making their own archtop.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, printer 2. I'll try to get as many pics up here as I can.
Cheers! |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Fine effort.. look forward to seeing more.
Why Port Orford ? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, bohemian.
I've used Port Orford in necks and noted it as being quite similar to spruces I've worked with. From reading it sounds to be a sound choice from the structural/tone department, so I figured I'd try it out for myself. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Some progress on the neck.
The neck is mahogany and bloodwood with a mahogany veneer between the two bloodwood laminates. I worked in getting the fretboard extension attached to the neck. The extension is 5/8" thick and a little over 6" long. It sits in a joint routes into the main neck blank. There will be two graphite rods spanning the joint. The neck connects to the body with a dovetail joint, so I cut that first with my dovetail jig before I glue the extension on. I also started cutting out some redwood burl pieces for the headstock, fingerrest and tailpiece. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
A couple of shots of where the body is. I've completed the sides with the linings, braces and reinforcement pieces for the two bevels.
The top and back plates are being contoured on the inside surfaces. I use a drill press with a 3/4" Forstner bit with the top ground off to remove the majority of the material. I take it down to 5/16" this was and with planing the inside I usually wind up at around 1/4" by the time the tool marks are gone. From there I will get put the callipers and carve the back to about 3/16" uniformly and the top will be tapered from about 5/32" at the centre to about 1/8" in the recurve. Thanks for looking. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Very beautiful. This is something I've been wanting to do for a while now. It takes guitar building to a whole new level.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
redir, it's definitely a big learning curve moving onto a guitar like this from solid body instruments. I think that it has improved all aspects of my building.
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'm wondering how you got into this? Have you had training? Been thinking about starting off by building a F5 mandolin. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
redir, I'm sure coming from flat-tops and classical guitars that this wouldn't be too much of a change for you.
I have no formal training on this. I started building a guitar in wood shop in high school and then about 3 years ago started building again. I've built about 9 instruments - 3 electric guitars, 3 electric basses and 3 archtop guitars. It's been self teaching through various books, forums, videos and trial and error. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Slick Archies Geoff.
Jim |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, Jim!
|