New Martins With Neck Angle Issues?

[NEGuy]

Thanks for the informative posts, Todd.
.

[mercy]

Todd is of course correct but all those decimals dont mean much to me. If we think in terms of fractions I can get that. So if the ideal were a 3/8 bridge and a 1/8 saddle it equals 1/2 inch. I know that 3/8 is not the same as .350 but the fractions I gave are understandable for most I think.

[darylcrisp]

Originally Posted by NEGuy

So, Darylcrisp (or anyone) -- what would you think of the condition of the neck on that guitar if it were a potential purchase?

The straightedge is clearly not resting on the top of the bridge, but almost, right?

And the saddle doesn't seem too low?
.

actually the first picture is not true lateral-if you notice there is a horizontal and perpendicular angle-but it gives you the general idea quickly-takes 5 seconds to lay the ruler on there and see where it lands.(always, ALWAYS use both hands and hold the ruler as you move it onto the fretboard and off-you don't want a steel ruler to slip out of your grip and dig into a guitar top-especially if it belongs to someone else..............ask me how i know)

if that picture were taken a little more true horizontal/perpendicular to the bridge/and the lateral aspect was deadon(the camera to bridge mean), the tip of that ruler would be touching the very 90% tip of the top of the bridge.

there are other means to measure as other posters have listed-all good, use what you like. the ruler thing does it quick and dirty.

d

[darylcrisp]

Originally Posted by drplayer

I think you have the straight edge in the wrong place. As it's been explained to me, it should be checked in the middle of the fingerboard, between the D & G strings. Due to the fingerboard radius, the ends (between the E & A and B & A strings) will naturally be slightly lower, so it may appear that the neck angle is shallow, when in fact it is not. Considering where you are checking this guitar, I'd say the neck angle is great--although the break angle of the strings over the saddle looks a tad shallow. Just a laymen's opinion...

i actually check at all string positions with the ruler if its a guitar i may purchase. using the middle string areas, one needs to make sure the bridge radius matches the fretboard radius-thats not always the case-some bridges vary in radius and height in different areas. i tend to look hard at the low E and high e placements-if those are within range-the neck is where i want it. the middle string area heights can be adjusted by a radius change on the saddle if desired(i tend to like more of a straight saddle where the radius does not match the fretboard-i have my reasons for that-i can get lower buzz free action where the low E and high e will be higher than the mids)

good point
d

[NEGuy]

Originally Posted by darylcrisp

. . . ALWAYS use both hands and hold the ruler as you move it onto the fretboard and off-you don't want a steel ruler to slip out of your grip and dig into a guitar top-especially if it belongs to someone else..............ask me how i know . . .

Ouch.

I feel your pain.

I have the same Stewmac steel ruler, so the cautionary advice is duly noted (especially for times when I am evaluating another's guitar!).
.

Originally Posted by mercy

Todd is of course correct but all those decimals dont mean much to me. If we think in terms of fractions I can get that. So if the ideal were a 3/8 bridge and a 1/8 saddle it equals 1/2 inch. I know that 3/8 is not the same as .350 but the fractions I gave are understandable for most I think.

It's a case of you can't please everyone. I get complaints from decimal lovers when I use fractions, and the metric folks always complain about me.

So, for the sake of clarity, a standard Martin bridge is 11/32" (0.344") and if the saddle is a maximum of 5/32" (0.156"), the total is exactly 1/2" (0.500").

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

It's a case of you can't please everyone. I get complaints from decimal lovers when I use fractions, and the metric folks always complain about me.

So, for the sake of clarity, a standard Martin bridge is 11/32" (0.344") and if the saddle is a maximum of 5/32" (0.156"), the total is exactly 1/2" (0.500").

Please re-write in word form. Numerals mean nothing to me

There's one in every crowd.

[darylcrisp]

Todd Y and Rod Neep, thanks for your information and chiming in. You both provided good material for all of us to dig further into and learn from.

I've read/seen(thanks for the pics Rod) some things i was not aware of-need to do some research now. Other posters offer info on approaches i had not considered and will check out.

thanks to all for contributing

Good thread!

d

[Martin 1940D28]

This should be "back to the top". Along with "whiskers".

[Jarlaxle]

So thought I would chime in, just purchased a brand new, custom shop Martin 0000-28V and the neck is.... P E R F E C T.

A straight edge laid along the frets intersects just at the very top edge of the bridge. The action from the factory is "Taylor Like" buttery yet has plenty of saddle should it need to be adjusted at some point. I can play it as loud as I want without any buzz... just awesome.

I recognize others have had issues but wanted to provide at least one example of a Martin that came out of the custom shop dead, solid perfect.

[Von Beerhofen]

My Jeff Daniels also has unusually high string action. Contacting Martin I was offered to return it to the plant, sadly I'm in Holland and the roundtrip would at least cost me 400$ (no extra insurance), not even mentioning what could happen during the trip and the trouble of filling documents for exporting/importing Madagascar Rosewood.
I'm also considering selling this guitar at a loss, fortunately I have other guitars which play great but it can be a huge problem if you haven't.
It seems to me that the risk of a neck reset is just higher on Martins with thinner tops and/or 1/4'' scallopped GE bracing (read most high end Martins). I just hope that both buyers and sellers will pay attention to this problem so few problematic instruments will make it into the shops and into the hands of guitarists.
What I find strange is that when a carbrand detects an insufficiency on one of their models repairs are fully at the cost of the manufacturer, but then again people can get killed because of it.
In the guitar world you can only get killed if your guitar snaps in 1/2 with full string tension on it and the neck subsequently enters an eye socket or hits your cranium with the force of a baseball bat, and that's not very likely is it?
Nor are you likely to trip over high string action and break your neck but still.

Ludwig

[scottishrogue]

I'm curious about those needing neck resets, how did you determine that a neck reset was necessary? I own over 10 Martin guitars and have never had any neck problems. Several are vintage, some are new, and most are used around 10 years old, or close. I guess I've been really lucky or you are doing something that causes the necks to go bad. Humidity issues? Are the strings too high a tension? Are you careful when handling your guitar? I just don't understand.

Glen

[Judson]

I took my 2012 D-18 in for a set-up and the authorized Martin guitar tech said it needed a neck re-set. I was bummed, because the guitar was practically brand new, but he said that Martin warranty would cover it entirely, so I was okay. Then he said he was backed up and it would take 9 weeks, so I was bummed again. I've had it back for a few months, the neck angle is spot on now and I have to say that it plays wonderfully, so all's well that ends well ...

Originally Posted by scottishrogue

I'm curious about those needing neck resets, how did you determine that a neck reset was necessary?

[sbeirnes]

Originally Posted by scottishrogue

I'm curious about those needing neck resets, how did you determine that a neck reset was necessary? I own over 10 Martin guitars and have never had any neck problems. Several are vintage, some are new, and most are used around 10 years old, or close. I guess I've been really lucky or you are doing something that causes the necks to go bad. Humidity issues? Are the strings too high a tension? Are you careful when handling your guitar? I just don't understand.

Glen

In my case the action was really high even with the saddle down to almost nothing. With the string height out of wack the guitar will not be in tune up the neck as the strings go sharp when fretted.

My D18 sucked. I am glad you have not had any issues.