Cervantes Crossover owners : acoustic properties ?

gitman · #1 10-07-2015, 06:17 PM

calling all owners of the above model : what is your take on the pure acoustic qualities of the guitar, be it the team-built or the signature model ? I'm actively looking for a crossover nylonstring guitar , to be used mostly unplugged in a guitar/upright bass/sax setting, strumming chords.... the Cordoba FUSION I have been using over the last 2 years is ok but I'm looking for a bit more cutting power/volume along with the easy playability of the Crossover models ....
any info is appreciated , thanks !

Bax Burgess · #2 10-07-2015, 11:00 PM

Of the Cervantes Crossover 1 Avant Garde series, the C/PE is clearer in the 1 & 2 strings than the S/IR; check out Petteway's C/PE comment at Dream Guitars, which led me to purchase it, and with which I agree. The C/PE certainly does have more overall volume than the Cordoba Fusion CD/IR.

mercosound · #3 10-10-2015, 08:00 AM

I've owned a Cervantes crossover - Cedar/Palo Escrito - for about 8 months now. I'm amazed at how the tone of the instrument has changed/improved over that period. Although I've played guitar for about 50 years (mostly archtops these days), I'm not very familiar with nylon string guitars - so I don't have a viable opinion about what's out there. I do know that I've never experienced such a marked change in an instrument over such a short period of time. It may help that I play it every day, but still...

mercosound · #4 10-10-2015, 08:12 AM

I should add that I've installed a K&K PU for gigging. I'm running it thru a Radial PZ Pre, and an Acoustic Image Clarus/Redstone spkr. cabinet. The combination sounds pretty good; a lot like the acoustic sound of the Cervantes. It sure makes being heard easier...

Sorry to be drifting off topic here, but I should mention that I auditioned a Grace "Felix" Preamp along side the PZ Pre, and found that the PZ Pre sounded closer to the acoustic sound of the guitar. I do like the Felix mic pre for recording, but I prefer the Radial as an on-stage preamp for the pick up.

Mooh · #5 10-10-2015, 10:19 AM

I like my Crossover 1 a lot. Very comfortable playability, not especially loud but quite reasonable regardless, lovely mature classical tone comparable to anything in its class. I have a K&K pickup in it but haven't used it a lot, preferring a mic where I can.

gitman · #6 10-14-2015, 09:10 AM

I've bitten the bullet and bought a Crossover in Spruce/Indian for a very attractive price - it should arrive here in a week or so. I have gigged with my Cordoba Fusion (with a solid spruce top, laminated maple back/sides, 12-fret neck ) for about 3 years now , have been playing acoustic guitar(s) for 40 years
so I know a thing or two about them .... my main concern is the pure un-amplified performance of this model. I know that playability is no issue since the neck size is the same on both guitars. when strung with high (or maybe even extra high) tension carbon strings the guitar should give me just the extra bit of cutting power.... having chosen a model with a spruce top and rosewood back I am aware of the " mid-scooping " effect this wood-combo might have on the sound - I will post my findings in due time !

gitman · #7 10-26-2015, 01:17 PM

I've had the Cervantes in my house for a few days now, set it up with shimmed nut/saddle and new Savarez high tension carbon strings and she came alive after a few hours of playing. Louder than my Cordoba, the solid rosewood back gives it more bass and the high mids cut through nicely. Re the price/quality relation I have to say this : for the money the Cordoba can't be beat. It's a very playable, decent sounding and well built crossover nylonstring with the extra bonus of a very good pickup-system already built in. If it were not for my specific needs for a LOUD nylonstring for purely acoustic playing I'd have stayed with my Cordoba. The Cervantes costs 2 to 3 times more , is not better built but has the solid woods throughout and that gives it the advantage re acoustic volume. It does not come with a pickup.
All this proves (IMHO) : from the moderate price range a real jump up in overall quality will cost a lot of money. I paid $ 600,- for my new Codoba and $ 1400,- for my used Cervantes which costs $ 2100,- new.....

GGSanders · #8 10-26-2015, 04:42 PM

Gitman, let's get this right. Having had the opportunity to compare, you feel the Cervantes is the better acoustic instrument, but that the Cordoba is the better bang for the buck at about 1/3 the cost new or about 1/2 used? Fit and finish about equal?

I considered the Cervantes, the Cordoba solid wood C9 or C10, as well as the Pono crossover, also solid rosewood/spruce, and opted for the Pono. None were available to try beforehand and it was simply a leap of faith with the option of return if unsatisfied.

I have no regrets as the Pono, after 6 months, just keeps getting better.

gitman · #9 10-26-2015, 05:10 PM

yes, that is my opinion , the Cordoba is a VERY VERY good deal. I got lucky in as far as I found a used Cervantes for $ 1400.00 (it has a few finish issues on the neck/fingerboard joint, nothing spectacular) , otherwise it would be too expensive for what it is. Compared to a "regular" all-solid-wood classical in the $ 2000 - 2500.00 range it is nothing special re the quality/depth of tone, dynamic sensitivity and it's range of tone color. as I was saying : my priorities here were volume and ease of play - my "real" nylonstring has a classical neck carve, italian spruce top and the back/sides are braz. rosewood - for strict classical /fingerstyle playing this guitar delivers BIG in the above mentioned categories PLUS the sound carries (sustainnnnn), the trebles SING and the bass is warm and lush...it's harder to play, unforgiving but totally worth the extra effort. BUT I only play it at home, not on stage and only for an hour at a time because then my left hand needs a rest ... the Cervantes plays like butter, as does the Cordoba and 4 sets a night are no biggie.

Bill Pillmore · #10 10-29-2015, 09:26 AM

I have played a Cervantes Crossover Spruce.Rosewood for about 4 months now and I am looking to upgrade the strings. Been using Addario hard tension.
Also what is a good string height at the 12 fret? Mine seems pretty high compared to a steel string acoustic.

Bax Burgess · #11 10-29-2015, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bill Pillmore

I have played a Cervantes Crossover Spruce.Rosewood for about 4 months now and I am looking to upgrade the strings. Been using Addario hard tension.
Also what is a good string height at the 12 fret? Mine seems pretty high compared to a steel string acoustic.

Due to the vibration range of nylons, the action has to be higher. Comfortable for me (at open F#, a slack tuning) is 6/64 at the first (e) string. As for strings, here's a quote I've saved from a previous posting:

Cervantes Crossover 1 owners. What strings are you using?

Mine has just arrived and it has Daddario EJ46 on the bass strings and Galli Carbon medium tension trebles.

GGSanders · #12 11-01-2015, 06:14 AM

I like my steel string action low, about 5.5/64 low E at the 12th fret using light gauge strings. I would like my nylon stringed crossover low, also, but the nature of the beast makes that impossible. Lower tension on nylon strings and the extent they vibrate would cause them to buzz all up and down the neck. Using "normal" tension Savarez HT Alliance carbon strings on my Pono, the 12th fret action at the low E is 3.2 mm, 2.5 mm at the high E. For comparison sake I checked the factory standards of Córdoba crossovers on their website and these fall right in line with those specs.

It takes a little while to get used to the differences in action, that's all.

Bill Pillmore · #13 11-04-2015, 03:49 PM

Ok, just measured. Low E 9/64 (3.57mm) High E 6/64 (2.38mm).
When I put a capo on the first fret the action at the Low E drops a 64th and it still plays fine. Maybe I just need to lower the nut slots a tad.

GGSanders · #14 11-05-2015, 12:48 PM

If a capo on the first fret lowers your action at the twelfth by 1/64, it could very well be true that your nut needs adjustment, but I, for one, would be hesitant to touch it myself. Any adjustment to the nut would have a much greater affect on playability at the first few frets rather than the twelfth, and I have read on this forum and elsewhere that the best way to check nut adjustment is to fret a string at the third fret and look for just a very slight amount of clearance between the string and first fret, just enough to see that there is clearance. The best way to lower the action at the 12th fret by 1/64 is to remove 1/32 from the bottom of the saddle.

I know there are many on this forum who recommend learning to make these adjustments, while others say just take it to a highly qualified tech. Speaking from personal experience, a messed up saddle is easier to fix/replace, than a messed up nut, and after messing up my steel string I had to take it to a pro to make it right.