Solid headstock for nylon string guitar?

[AcornHouse]

Originally Posted by printer2

So you are saying my opinion is flawed even though I show a picture which shows the wraps are acceptable on a guitar that is my daily player and I rarely need more than one turn of the post to get it in tune?

Fred, I'm wasn't saying it doesn't work for you. Clearly you've done it and have been satisfied (although your own words "not that bad" and "acceptable" don't shout that it's the best solution.)
What I was saying, as Alan and Frank have said, is that sometimes things are the way they are for a reason. Experimentation is great to find new better ways of doing things. But, if you can't show that's it's better, I'm going to go with years (decades, really) of experience every time.

That's all.

[printer2]

Originally Posted by AcornHouse

Fred, I'm wasn't saying it doesn't work for you. Clearly you've done it and have been satisfied (although your own words "not that bad" and "acceptable" don't shout that it's the best solution.)
What I was saying, as Alan and Frank have said, is that sometimes things are the way they are for a reason. Experimentation is great to find new better ways of doing things. But, if you can't show that's it's better, I'm going to go with years (decades, really) of experience every time.

That's all.

Hey I winked, did not take it seriously just having some fun. Ok I'll put it another way. I have a classical guitar with slotted headstock and my steel string tuner guitar. I find it easier to have my hand fret the note and adjust the pitch with my right hand. To me doing this for the three higher strings is awkward on a slot head and a piece of cake on a paddlehead. Twisting the tuner the extra bit is something I don't even notice.

I'll go on record to say, I think it is better, for me. I used the terms acceptable and not that bad because I am not going to say it is the next best thing to sliced bread. Others used to turning a third of a turn and expecting to hear the pitch go up a certain amount may get real ticked off when it doesn't. But in shear mechanics, it works just fine. I think it is better because I want opposing tuners and so does the OP. Decades of experience is not going to change that.

[Quickstep192]

Originally Posted by AcornHouse

Why do you want to avoid the slotted headstock?

Fair question - there are two reasons. The first is that it will be a crossover, rather than a classical, so I want it to look more like a steel string. The other is that slotted headstocks are a pain to re-string.

[mirwa]

Thinning the headstock also helps, most traditional headstocks are around 14mm ""ish"" classicals upwards of 19mm.

I have thinned a headstock down to 10mm with no issues to create more projection of a tuner for your exact situation.

Steve

[Quickstep192]

Thanks Steve. Based on that info and Printer2's photo, I think this is workable. It seems even one extra millimeter buys a full extra wrap.