#16
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I was talking about braces. And by composite, I mean any mixing of materials. Trevor Gore's falcate bracing is one of the best ways to use carbon fiber in braces. It uses one strip underneath the brace and one along the top, to get an I-beam type effect. Lighter weight and more creep-resistant than solid spruce. But it's tricky to get right because you can't carve material off the braces afterward to finetune the stiffness.
A less effective all-wood composite would be to glue a vertical strip of higher strength wood like purpleheart between two strips of cedar and then use it like normal. The tall skinny purpleheart strip would take the load, while the cedar just keeps it from tipping over. Probably would be slightly heavier than solid spruce, but slightly more creep resistant. Quote:
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#17
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Thank you Truckjohn and dekutree64.... very informative!
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Be & Remember ☮ |
#18
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Alot of great information in this thread. Thanks for posting it.
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#19
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I highly recommend mid-90s Taylors if you're open to buying used, and only the new revoiced models otherwise.
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Solo acoustic guitar videos: This Boy is Damaged - Little Watercolor Pictures of Locomotives - Ragamuffin |
#20
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Keeping your guitars well set-up and properly humidified helps alot too - letting small problems in action and set-up go without attention can lead to bigger problems very quickly. I think that traveling and not having a luthier or tech that you trust and knows you and your guitars is probably your biggest problem -
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More than a few Santa Cruz’s, a few Sexauers, a Patterson, a Larrivee, a Cumpiano, and a Klepper!! |
#21
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Guitars prone to Neck resets and bellied up bridges
Thank you all ..... I’ll look into older Taylor if I get a chance in my neck of the woods.
Tadol. You nailed it . I have my guitars well humidified. I just have to find a quick solution to floor heating, I can’t leave the guitars on the floor anymore.
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Be & Remember ☮ Last edited by HNS; 10-17-2017 at 04:37 AM. |
#22
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Remember its still the same universe...
It's not "If" it will need maintenance - it's "When".... A guitar is going to need some maintenance between 20 and 40 years old. If it's a mid 90's - you are already walking into that window.... Also - a 1990's Taylor doesn't have the NT neck - that means a reset will run you $400+ vs $75 for shims.... |
#23
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Be & Remember ☮ |
#24
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That's not necessarily true for all guitars, there are a few outliers. One factor that hasn't been mentioned is the variability of wood properties. Some guitars are made with wood that has sufficient resistance to creep so that they never need a neck reset. Why don't the higher quality guitars use that wood exclusively? There's no way to tell by looking or nondestructive testing.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#25
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If you look at ebay or reverb, you'll find many guitars that seem to have been untouched over 50-60 years. Unfortunately, as you implied, they're not too many.
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Be & Remember ☮ |
#26
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#27
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This only helps your decision if the rotation is more than 2° from string tension, that indicates it's very lightly built and has a higher probability of needing a reset. (and also a higher probability of sounding great).
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#28
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Be & Remember ☮ |
#29
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I'm not certain that bridge rotation is any indicator of the need for a neck reset. Rotation of the bridge involves areas of the top before and after the bridge. Neck resets involve the entire upper bout rotating "into" the soundhole. One relates to the structure of the top, mostly, the other the body. I have a 30+ year old guitar that is in need of a neck reset. It still has about the same amount of bridge rotation as it did when new. It's one of the best sounding guitars I've ever made (i.e. the top isn't over-built). The lower bout of the top has been largely stable, but the upper bout of the guitar - back, linings, bracing, "U" shaped neck block and upper bout of the top - has deformed, taking the neck with it. |
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I agree that bridge rotation probably isn't a good indicator, but can you think of anything that can be measured easily that would be better? I've been interested in this for a while, I have one of those 60+year old guitar that's never had a reset and still doesn't need one. It does have a significant belly behind the bridge, but the action has not risen significantly in 40 years(I've had it over 50 years). I do have it strung with Extra Lights (0.10s), which may make some difference.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |