How to tell if a guitar has had a neck reset?

[dhodgeh]

I'm planning on attending the Orlando Guitar Expo, and I will be shopping for older Martin (just cause.....).

Anyway, been doing my homework on what to look out for, and have a handle on how to check if a neck reset is needed.

What I don't know is how to check if a guitar has already had a neck reset.

Any tell-tale signs or indicators that I need to be aware of when inspecting an instrument.

I would like to be able to verify that a reset had been done if a vendor tells me so.

TIA

D

[1Charlie]

To get the neck off, the luthier has to carefully cut the line of finish at the neck joint, where it meets the body, so that the neck will come off cleanly without marring the finish.

The neck joint usually will show signs that the finish has been cut along the line where the neck meets the body.

Either that, or there will be signs that the neck to body joint has been touched up/oversprayed.

Some luthiers are so good at this that it is impossible to tell.

Either way, a previous neck reset (either yes or no) does not significantly impact the value of a vintage Martin. What does, more than anything else, is the originality of the instrument, especially the finish. The more original, the greater the value.

A good repairman will leave almost no evidence of the work. One thing that may be evident is fall-off or fall-away of the fretboard extension. However, that is not definitive. If they mitigated that by fitting a tapered shim (wedge) under the extension, then a previous neck reset is a near certainty.

That said, the neck/body geometry being correct when you buy it is most important. If that is correct, it doesn't matter whether the neck has been reset or not. If the geometry is not correct, then you need to consider the cost of the work in the purchase price.

Originally Posted by 1Charlie

To get the neck off, the luthier has to carefully cut the line of finish at the neck joint, where it meets the body, so that the neck will come off cleanly without marring the finish.

Not on a Martin. The necks and bodies are finished separately before final assembly. No finish work is required to remove the neck.

[Borderdon]

Had the neck reset on my 000-18 last year. Even on really close inspection of both the fretboard extension and neck joint, I could find no evidence the work had been done. It was also refretted at the same time.
The playability is now excellent.

[Earl49]

When the neck was reset on my 1990 J-40 three years ago, the repairs were invisible. He also did other work too, and that was equally invisible. The only things I noticed was the improved action (neck reset) and far better intonation (bridge relocation to the correct spot).

If the neck has already been reset and you like the action and tone, that sounds like a "win" to me. I think it is pretty rare that a guitar needs more than one neck reset in its lifetime (or yours).

[Moocheng]

often one of the "tells " is if theres any evidence of the frets around the neck joint have been popped. They often need to remove frets and drill holes in the fret slot to introduce steam to get the joint apart.
Check the fret ends at the neck joint to see if anythings out of keeping with the rest of the neck. Obviously this will not apply if the necks had a refret along side a reset

[RustyAxe]

Originally Posted by dhodgeh

Anyway, been doing my homework on what to look out for, and have a handle on how to check if a neck reset is needed.

What I don't know is how to check if a guitar has already had a neck reset.

Any tell-tale signs or indicators that I need to be aware of when inspecting an instrument.

I would like to be able to verify that a reset had been done if a vendor tells me so.

If you know how to tell when a guitar needs a reset, then you also know when the neck angle is correct. I don't understand the reason for the question.

[JerryM]

Ditto, I had the neck reset on my SCGC triple O by Santa Cruz this past year and I cannot tell the guitar was ever touched. Plays perfect though.

[bryankimsey]

Originally Posted by Moocheng

....and drill holes in the fret slot to introduce steam to get the joint apart.

Since most steam needles are just under 3/32" (.093") and most Martin sized frets are .080" w, you can sometimes see very slight evidence of the steam hole on either side of the 15th fret.

Look for marks under the heel cap where the sandpaper strips dragged.

Shims under the extension are a dead giveaway.

Otherwise... if the neck angle is good, the action is good, and the saddle height is good... call it a duck.

[dhodgeh]

Thanks for all the responses. All good information.

Originally Posted by RustyAxe

If you know how to tell when a guitar needs a reset, then you also know when the neck angle is correct. I don't understand the reason for the question.

Just doing my due diligence and making sure I can catch any BS a vendor might try to feed me.


As Bryan posted, call it a duck if it all checks out.

D

[Quickstep192]

There’s an article in the most recent issue of Acoustic Guitar magazine for what to look for when looking at used guitars.

[redir]

If it's any consolation, if you are after a vintage guitar and the neck has been reset then if anything that's probably a better thing. It's not going to decrease the value (assuming it was done right and nearly impossible to tell) and now you have a very stable guitar with optimal tone for many years to come.

[Zigeuner]

You shouldn't be able to tell whether a guitar has had a neck reset if it was done carefully. Speaking of Martin guitars, the necks and bodies are finished separately so that there is no finish in the line between the neck heel and the front of the body.

With a perfect job, the neck heel line will be maintained so that it meets the body with no gap after the angle of the heel has been changed.

If you buy a vintage guitar that's had a neck reset, that's a good thing.