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#16
07-13-2017, 10:13 PM
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There should be a 'shadow' where the bridge was originally. I recently bought a '70's Ibanez ES-175 copy with that type of bridge and when I first changed the strings I was like "omg....it's broken!' ...ha ha. ANyway, the shadow is your starting point and then it's just a matter of wiggling it back and forth a tad. Using the intonation at the 12th fret move it back slightly if sharp and forward a bit if flat.
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1978 Guild D-55 Breedlove Performer Pro Concert rosewood Taylor 114E Alvarez MD60 Herringbone Guild GAD-50 
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#17
07-14-2017, 12:30 PM
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Tricks from an archtop builder. One is just put a little masking tape on each foot of the bridge, and it will stay in place just fine. Second is when you string it up, loosen the middle four strings off and tune the high and low E up to around pitch. Move the bridge around until they are in tune at the 12th fret. You can move the bridge easily because the downforce is very low with only two strings up to tension. If the high and low E's are intonated correctly, all the other strings will be as well (if they ever were, that is).
If you have a floating tailpiece, always bring the strings up to tension from the outside in - the two E's, then the A and B, then the D and G. That keeps the tailpiece centered behind the bridge very naturally.
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Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
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