#16
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I think low, med high are still relevant as it seems to me that guitars necks seem to sit a little differently on each guitar. If I say I like low action, I want (I assume most people that like low action feel the same) to have the strings as low to the fret board as possible without the strings hitting the wood and creating a buzz. I have seen people write that they like a little higher action and like the feeling of pressing those strings down farther.
I could be wrong in my thinking as I have never setup a guitar for myself. I have a local tech set it up with as low action as I can have for type of playing I do without any buzz. I do strum hard on some of my bigger guitars. My tech has been setting up my guitars for over 15 years. He knows what I like. I did buy one of these metal string action gauges from stewart-macdonald for the people that are comfortable using them to do their own setups. But I have no idea what my numbers are in metric or imperial on the 4 different brands of guitars that I own. I think it measures using imperial only. If I said I like x amount of space before my low E string and the fret board on my D-18 that the same number would work on your guitar even if it is a D-18? I might be way off here in my thinking so I probably should not have posted at all. But I was in the mood to comment as I am not very technical.
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at 4. No more for awhile. Moving soon. Less is better until I settle. |
#17
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I suggest using an atomic clock for greatest accuracy in your response. As to guitar action, I use my fingers and eyes to discern when it is correct on my instruments, as it WILL be different on each one, to end up with a similar feel on them all. Measurement tools have their say with certain aspects of setting up my instruments to where I want them, but, in the end, high, low, medium rare, etc., are pretty relevant to most of us when discussing guitar action. I think we all (most of us, anyway) do understand what we mean when using these terms
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(insert famous quote here) |
#18
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This is an excellent and valuable topic on which to devote at least five pages. I know I'll eagerly await each response.
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#19
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... and if imperial are they fractions with common denominators, each resolved to lowest denominator, or decimals? ... if decimal, how many significant figures after the decimal point? Last edited by Tico; 12-22-2017 at 08:14 PM. |
#20
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My thoughts only apply to the Christmas season. Come new years they go out the window. Time for a new year and new way of thinking, seasonable thinking for every discussion on action on this forum and the other one too.
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at 4. No more for awhile. Moving soon. Less is better until I settle. |
#21
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Now everyone . . . the nice man just wants us ALL to do the thing his way ALL THE TIME. Is that too much to ask?
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#22
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Nobody actually interested in accurate measurements uses inch fractions or fractional mm. We generally use thousandths of an inch or thousandths of a mm. You move one mm and you've moved 39 thousandths. Nearly the same for 64ths. When you want .004-.008 relief, fractions are a joke. Same joke with nut action adjustments. What, you're gonna tell some guy you reduced his nut action by 13/40ths of a mm?? Mm and inch fractions are, at best, general descriptions giving the reader a range of what the action or other measurement might be. I gotta drink less coffee and more scotch. : / |
#23
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How many thousandths of an inch or mm is the circumference of the Earth? How many thousandths of an inch or mm is the depth of a guitar? Practicality suggests that one use units of measure that are commensurate with what is being measured. One wouldn't measure the thickness of a guitar top in yards: one wouldn't measure the length of their driveway in thousandths of an inch or mm. In my guitar making and repair work, I use inches, cm, eighths of an inch, sixteenths of an inch, thirty secondths of an inch, thousandths of an inch, mm and tenths of mm's. Different units of measure for measuring different things. Quote:
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#24
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I think this is a pretty low blow, that is at best of medium interest with a high chance of making no change in how we measure the low, medium or high action on our guitars.
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#25
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I think I'll just keep doing things the way I've been doing it for decades. It's served me well.
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D-18GE HD-28V Custom Shop J-45TV Larrivee OM 03E Aria AP-STD Gibson TB-2 conversion banjo Price Cavalier banjo |
#26
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As I stated in another topic, "I only actually measure the string clearance to get me close, and the rest I do by feel...trial and error." I have four guitars that are all different. I wouldn't expect the exact measurements I use for one of them should necessarily apply to all the rest. |
#27
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Barry My SoundCloud page Avalon L-320C, Guild D-120, Martin D-16GT, McIlroy A20, Pellerin SJ CW Cordobas - C5, Fusion 12 Orchestra, C12, Stage Traditional Alvarez AP66SB, Seagull Folk Aria {Johann Logy}: |
#28
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Silly Moustache: Always remember that "A pint's a pound the world around" except here in San Francisco where a pint will cost you at least six bucks! (don't know what that is in Sterling)
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La Patrie Concert Lakewood M-1 (2003) Recording King R0S-06 000 Blueridge BR-142 Recording King R0-T16 Alvarez AP66SHB |
#29
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I measure and quote mine on a metric basis, using a 150 mm engineer's rule, interpolating to 1/10 mm. Any more accurate than I can estimate like that is likely to change on a daily basis. I use feeler gauges for some jobs, but not that.
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Tony D http://www.soundclick.com/bands/defa...?bandID=784456 http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/ |
#30
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+1 |