Leach Custom Dread Road Show

[harvl]

OK, OK ... more pictures...


The back braces are glued in place using the same template.


The back is glued to the sides


The next step will be to create a slight forward slope at the front of the body so that the fretboard will follow the top even though the neck is angled.


Here is one of the new jigs I am "testing." From about the area of the center of the soundhole to the neck block the jig tapers at about 1 deg.


The router is equiped with a flat bottom bit, the base of the router rides along the jig, cutting away the sides and kerfing, this process removes about 1/16" from the sides at the area where the neck attaches down to nothing at the upper bout.


The top is then glued to the back and sides.

[longdrive55]

Great pix.

Can you expain how you controlled the fretboard extension angle vs. the top plate angle prior to implementing this new jig?

Also, did you get this idea from Kenneth Michael Guitars? I ask because I know he's a proponent of removing material from the rim in the upper bout area to match the fretboard extension and top plate angles......he's found that this is the same method that Martin is using.

[Rollie]

Lookin Good , Harvl........Do the "gussets" on the neck block make things more stable ?

[harvl]

Over the years I've used a number of different methods, from sanding the detail in (which is how Martin does it) to adding a wedge under the fretboard extension and then binding the fretboard. I had been planning on using the Martin method but building a complicated fixture to accurately lower the body at the right angle and depth would have been more work. One day it dawned on me that making a piece of 3/4" MDF taper at 1 deg on one end was pretty easy with a thickness sander...

The "gussets" or "corbels" as I like to call them add an amazing amount of strength to the neck block. My necks are completely bolted in - fretboard and all - so I need to add strength to the block to compensate for not having the fretboard glued down. This design also provides a nice pocket area for a block of wood that is under the fretboard extension to fit into. I can also use this pocket to make sure the neck block is exactly perpendicular to the centerline of the guitar.

[harvl]

Better try and get caught up here before the guitar is done....

The body fresh from the build form.


Routing the end graft stripe


Installing the stripe.

[Kitchen Guitars]

Geeze you make me feel like I am building behind my back with a mirror. Swiping some of your Jig ideas! Looks great Harv

[longdrive55]

Originally Posted by harvl

Over the years I've used a number of different methods, from sanding the detail in (which is how Martin does it) to adding a wedge under the fretboard extension and then binding the fretboard. I had been planning on using the Martin method but building a complicated fixture to accurately lower the body at the right angle and depth would have been more work. One day it dawned on me that making a piece of 3/4" MDF taper at 1 deg on one end was pretty easy with a thickness sander...

Hi Harv,

Can you explain "sanding the detail in"? I'm not sure what that means.

By the way, do you radius the rim and the back of the number one brace in the upper bout area or do you leave the rim and back of the number one brace flat in the upper bout with this latest jig?

Here are a couple of links for others that are handling the fretboard extension angle the way you do (both of them advocate flat rim and braces in the upper bout when using this method):

-http://www.lenaweelutherie.info/page6/page24/page24.html

-http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html

[harvl]

Originally Posted by Kitchen Guitars

Swiping some of your Jig ideas!

Most of them I swiped (and modified...) from someone else so have at it

I think making jigs might be more fun than making guitars sometimes... but guitars usually smell better

Harv

[harvl]

Originally Posted by longdrive55

Hi Harv,

Can you explain "sanding the detail in"? I'm not sure what that means.

By the way, do you radius the rim and the back of the number one brace in the upper bout area or do you leave the rim and back of the number one brace flat in the upper bout with this latest jig?

Here are a couple of links for others that are handling the fretboard extension angle the way you do (both of them advocate flat rim and braces in the upper bout when using this method):

-http://www.lenaweelutherie.info/page6/page24/page24.html

-http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html

The tops are flat and the front tapers on a flat plan as well. I would sand the angle in using the disc sander I use to sand the back rad. into the sides and kerfing. Here is the disc sander, it has interchangeable dished and flat sanding surfaces. This disc spins at a couple hundred RPM's and I lower the body down by hand for the back. To accurately sand in the taper would require a mechanism to hold the body at 1 deg and also have a stop to keep from sanding too much or not enough, this would also require that the body be placed in the exact same location each time so it's not a simple thing using ball-bearing drawer slides etc.

[harvl]

My fixture for routing binding ledges, the dowel keeps the router parallel to the sides and the "shoe" maintains depth control.


Binding being taped in place on Rusty's guitar


Scraping the binding and herringbone on the Road Show guitar


masking tape is placed where the bridge will go.


Bridge is screwed in place and the tape is trimmed with a sharp X-Acto knife


The tape left behind matches the shape of the bridge

[longdrive55]

Hey Harv,

How goes the progress on the Road Show Build?

Also, what kind of wood do you use for your go bars and how do you cut it?

Thanks,

Erik

[harvl]

The go bars are cut from 3/4" poplar about 3/16" thick, I slice them on the table saw.

More Pictures....

Here is a design for a torch-style headstock inlay (thinking about a future production run of imported VG's with this inlay pattern)


The headstock veneer is clamped in place


The completed headstock


Next the fretboard is glued to the neck


After the fretboard is glued, the cut is made for fold (the pocket for the hinge is cut before the fretboard is glued on) Finally, the frets are added. Now the guitar is ready for finish!!!

[dkoloff]

I sense Roadshow anxiety......tension building!

[harvl]

sorry no pictures... just boring finsh being applied... Good news is I think I just need to wait a few more days to fully cure and then buff and set it up. Then I'll let it set for a week to make sure it's "set" and then send it on it's way.

Harv

[harvl]

Rounding the home stretch!!! All finished and buffed and the bridge is on. It even has strings on it! I expect it to begin it's journey next week.