#121
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Got some time to post a few pictures. Still have a little cleanup to finish but all scraping completed for the most part. Pretty happy with the way its turned out so far.
20171007_161529 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr 20171007_161625 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr 20171007_161615 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr 20171007_163317 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr |
#122
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Getting ready to get back to work on the guitar, Been trying to get caught back up on work.
I've still got to make my bridge but I was wanting to get a heads up on properly locating the bridge onthe soundboard to get the right intonation. Any advice on this is much appreciated. I didn't have any problem on getting it right on the SG that I built but I put a roller bridge on it and the saddles on it are individually adjustable and that allowed me to get it perfect. As you all know I wont be able to have that flex ability on this guitar. Thanks again in advance. |
#123
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Quote:
Full manual: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/i-5295/i-5295.pdf |
#124
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Quote:
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#125
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Got my bridge made today. Was getting ready to make a jig to rout the saddle slot and got to thinking that I could put my Dremel bit in the Milling machine and set the angle on my vice and cut it that way. Got a perfect fit on the saddle. Then drilled the bridge pin holes. I was really dreading cutting that slot for the saddle until I thought of the milling machine.
20171026_094604 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr 20171026_103920 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr 20171026_111238 by Cabinet Man, on Flickr |
#126
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Locating the saddle center line.
Use Stew Mac's fret calc to calculate the scale length + intonation compensation. Lay your bridge on the top. Measure from the back of the nut (or center of zero fret) to that measurement. Move the bridge to where the e and E strings would be properly positioned with scale + compensation at the middle of the saddle slot. Mark the front edge of the bridge with some tape on the top.. Make sure you align the center of the string spacing with the centerline of the neck... Off you go. |
#127
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Quote:
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#128
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It’s really coming along! You’re more ambitious - but obviously more skilled - than me with power tools. I tried making a bridge with a Dremel and a friend’s saddlematic and just ruined an otherwise beautiful piece of rosewood, making me really hesitant with a nice piece of perfect black ebony. For my first few builds I’m using services fretboards and premade saddles while I “tool up” and make jigs.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#129
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I thought about just using a pre made bridge but I thought since I have already made it this far from scratch why not at least try to make the bridge. I have to be truthful though. If it weren't for my brother storing his milling machine in my garage and me being able to use it I would have probably just bought a premade bridge.
I did go ahead and by a pre shaped bone nut and saddle. I started to make them out of Corian but wanted to use bone and they weren't expensive at all. Will probably go ahead and get some bone bridge pins as well. |
#130
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Which tuners are you all using or recommend for acoustics. I need to get some and thought about Grover Rotomatics but their so dog gone heavy. That's what I used on the SG that I built but would like something lighter for this acouatic.
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#131
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Quote:
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#132
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Quote:
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#133
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Sorry for the double post
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#134
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Interesting. I would have made a wider saddle.
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#135
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Gotoh 510 minis are my current favorite. About 170 grams with wood buttons.
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