Changing strings for the first time - some basic questions

[Mike CT]

I was planning to change strings for the first time sometime soon and have watched a number of videos on it ( Justin guitar, Martin tech, and some others) and think that I get the process. That said I don’t want to take a chance on messing up the guitar so I have a few questions. It’s a small list so any insight on some/all would be greatly appreciated.

1). What is a rule of thumb for how often to change strings? I got the j-45 around April and the HB in early July and both have the original strings. I try to play for a couple of hours late at night but it’s split between the guitars and is not all playing. Mixing in learning songs, tv, etc if that helps.

2) should I use lemon oil every time that I change the strings? Is it just dusting off the fretboard and then putting it on? Will it hurt mother of pearl inlays if it touches them?

3). Sticking with lemon oil, do you use a little or a lot and how carefully do you need to be to make sure it doesn’t touch a nitro finish and how long do you need to let it sit before playing?

4) it seems like videos show two different ways to start winding around the post. Some - and the Gibson manual- says go through the post, wrap around and over the string at first and then wind down. The Martin tech says once you go through the post wrap around under the string at first and then basically bend it over the string to lock in, and then wind down from there. Is one method preferred?

5) when you push bridge pins down is there a hard limit how far each goes down, or does it get tighter and tighter so that I need to be very mindful of how hard I’m pushing down?

6). Some videos show taking off the old strings but cutting and others show you taking them all off of the post first and then from the bridge? Is there a benefit to cutting them? Seems like more work for the same result?

7). Is there a preferred order that I should use to put the new strings on (low E first, the. a, etc). I couldn’t tell at all from the videos.

Is there anything else that I should be asking or thinking about?

Thanks!!
Mike

[ChrisE]

1) Change them when you think they don't sound good anymore or if they don't stay in tune like they used to. (Or when you read on an internet forum that the strings you have suck and you have to use the newest, latest greatest thing on the market).

2) Damp cloth every time or maybe super fine steel wool once a year. Lemon oil probably not necessary.

3) I don't use it.

4) Check out the Taylor method. I think it all comes down to what works best for you.

5) It shouldn't take much pressure to put the pins in. Tug on the string to "lock" it into the pin/bridge area.

6) Whatever works for you. It doesn't make a difference.

7) It doesn't matter.

Stretch the strings by giving them a few good tugs after you install them.

Oh yeah--be careful when tuning them up because they could snap and take out your eye, rip off your finger, or worse!

[Mystery123]

Wait for answers from experienced members ut here's my stab at few things.
Some change strings every 3 months while others play until the strings sound dead or break.
For practice, as long as it sounds fine, why change?
Definitely use fresh strings for recording or shows.

Dab oil in a lint free cloth and wipe fretboard. That way, it doesn't run anywhere.
I think general rule is once a year.

Regardless of how you lock, Make sure the strings wind up from inside out not outside in.

There are instructions online on how to set the ball on bridge pin so it sits in there securely.

As for what strings to string first, shouldn't matter but I've read somewhere that usually string (more important when tuning) the thick strings first so the neck is in position.

Make sure you double confirm what peg you are turning to tune a string or you'll hear a snap and realize you've been turning B peg and while tuning E.

[Swamp Yankee]

1. I change them when they sound dead or when they won't stay in tune...or when I decide I don't like them, sometimes that's as soon as I've played them right after I put them on.
2. No - definitely not - it's overkill at best, and, depending on the product, might be harmful to the guitar in the long term.
3. I don't use lemon oil at all - but if I did the rule should be nothing more than 3-4 drops to do the entire fretboard, one drop at a time into a cotton cloth rubbed into the fretboard hard enough to make it warm up, for as many frets as you can do per drop..and then follow up with a hard rubbing with a dry cotton cloth to clean up any oil that hasn't soaked in.
4. I do the one wind over, then the rest under - but that's by force of habit and it doesn't look as nice as the simple winding on the post under the tag end of the string
5. The bridge pin will go in as far as it will go in - the key is to pull the string end snug to the bottom of the bridge plate as you push the pin in as far as it will go - resist the urge to hammer the pin home.
6. I take the strings off whole because it makes them easier to rewind, tuck them back into the box or bag the new strings came in, and dispose of them. I have cut them in the past, but the first time the curlicue end of a high e string gets lost in the carpet, only to be find stuck in your foot later, you'll learn to police up the sharp bits of the strings more efficiently
7. I typically wind the low E string first because I have all the bridge pins out when I do it....and if one doesn't fit right, I just grab another. I s'pose I ought to keep the bridge pins in order so I could put them back in order...but I never seem to remember to do that so.....

Things to consider: IMO you should forget the idea that the guitar needs polishing or oiling, etc. You're better off simply wiping it down and making sure it's properly humidified.

Oiling the fretboard is something I do maybe once a year, if that, and I never polish or wax the body or neck.

If there's a lot of schmutz on the neck or the body, like if you've been playing while eating BBQ ribs, a soft clean white cotton rag with a few drops of naptha will clean it safely. Don't rub hard...even a soft cloth might have gritty bits in the weave that can leave swirls in the finish.

[islandguitar]

All great advice! Just would add one more vote for the Taylor method of changing strings.........(like everyone said, whatever works for you will be best in the end).
The reason I like this method is ....control.......especially when taking strings off when it's time to change again. No scratches on the head stock, no poked fingers bleeding from string ends, etc. Take a look at this method and weigh against others to find out what is best for you.

[JBCROTTY]

My input if it helps:

I change strings about every 3 months. Depends on time spent playing the strings, but I average every 3 months.

I don't use lemon or other citrus oils - use a non citrus fretboard conditioner like F1. And do this only once or twice per year, depending on climate.

I use the Taylor method of string install - works best for me. You can find videos of the method on You Tube. I don't own a Taylor guitar.

Remember to stretch the strings a couple of times after installing, bringing them up to tune after each stretch. This will allow them to hold tune better. This is discussed in the Taylor method.

Don't press too hard on the bridge pins - just hard enough to seat them. I typically hold my finger over the bridge pin of the string I am bringing up to tension once the string is wound and taught. This will keep the pin from flying out and the string ball will seat properly as the string comes up to tension. Again, don't press down too hard while doing this.

Enjoy it and don't stress out - I find experimenting with strings and changing strings to be a very enjoyable part of this hobby.

[guitararmy]

I only change my strings when I think they are very dead and thuddy. If I was a performing musician I might change them more often.

Don't over-oil your fretboard. Maybe once a year or less...

I pull all of my bridge pins at once, saving my old strings for recycling, and seat the pins for the new wound strings from the inside before stringing them up.

[Goat Mick]

String changing isn't rocket science and shouldn't be something to cause you any stress at all. Just go slowly the first few times and before long you'll be whipping a new set of strings on your guitar in just a few minutes. The part that confused me when I first started back in the Stone Ages, was how the ball end of the string should be positioned at the bridge plate. The ball of the string actually snugs up to the bridge plate inside the guitar and is just held in place by the peg. See the pic below. What I do is put the ball end into the hole and then slide the peg in about halfway. I pull the string until the ball is firmly seated and then push the peg the rest of the way into the hole to secure the string. Much more difficult to explain than it is to actually do.

[Neil K Walk]

Originally Posted by Mike CT

I was planning to change strings for the first time sometime soon and have watched a number of videos on it ( Justin guitar, Martin tech, and some others) and think that I get the process. That said I don’t want to take a chance on messing up the guitar so I have a few questions. It’s a small list so any insight on some/all would be greatly appreciated.

1). What is a rule of thumb for how often to change strings? I got the j-45 around April and the HB in early July and both have the original strings. I try to play for a couple of hours late at night but it’s split between the guitars and is not all playing. Mixing in learning songs, tv, etc if that helps.

It depends on how sensitive your ears are, how acidic your perspiration is and how strong your hands are. I know people who play every day for hours on end who change their strings twice a week. For me (a daily player but not a marathon player) my rule of thumb is 3-6 weeks depending upon frequency of playing.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

2) should I use lemon oil every time that I change the strings? Is it just dusting off the fretboard and then putting it on?

I don't use lemon oil. I've heard it interacts with the finish (fretboards and bridges are unfinished but the body is) and the "slick" feeling just doesn't seem right IMO. From what I understand, what you want to use is boiled linseed oil, which is available in any hardware store. It's a good idea to use steel wool to clean any "gunk" off the fretboard. Oil is meant to keep the wood stable from changes in humidity, not as a true "cleaning" or "treating" agent. Any benefits to "feel" are secondary; a clean and properly hydrated fretboard should feel sufficient on its own. The "fast" feeling comes from clean strings as well, not from lubrication.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

3). Sticking with lemon oil, do you use a little or a lot and how carefully do you need to be to make sure it doesn’t touch a nitro finish and how long do you need to let it sit before playing?

Again, I don't use it but rule of thumb is "less is more" with anything that you treat your fretboard with. Any excess that doesn't soak in should be wiped off so that it doesn't coat your strings or get transferred elsewhere on to the guitar neck or body. You don't want the fretboard "slathered" or "swimming with" oil.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

4) it seems like videos show two different ways to start winding around the post. Some - and the Gibson manual- says go through the post, wrap around and over the string at first and then wind down. The Martin tech says once you go through the post wrap around under the string at first and then basically bend it over the string to lock in, and then wind down from there. Is one method preferred?

I like the "Taylor" method, which is to remove all the strings at once; install all the pins at once and then work in pairs from the inner strings on out. I like to just "measure" for the excess and clip them usually about 1-1.5 the distance between the tuning machine posts. Then I'll crimp the string at the end and wrap the string once by hand before using a string winder to bring up the tension. It's sort of like a seamanship thing not unlike how a boatswain's mate wraps mooring line around a chock.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

5) when you push bridge pins down is there a hard limit how far each goes down, or does it get tighter and tighter so that I need to be very mindful of how hard I’m pushing down?

They should be "snug", not "stuck." If you use too much force you could damage/split the bridge as the grain runs laterally along all the pin holes. Generally, you should be able to reach inside the guitar and push them out using a hard object (such as a dime) with minimal resistance.[/B]

Originally Posted by Mike CT

6). Some videos show taking off the old strings but cutting and others show you taking them all off of the post first and then from the bridge? Is there a benefit to cutting them? Seems like more work for the same result?

I don't understand this. I've heard people argue about concerns of taking all tension off the neck and thus swapping out strings individually vs. just taking off all the strings at once. FWIW I don't see anything good about cutting off old strings at any tension. They should be slackened so that all tension is taken off the neck gradually. Once they're all off, then it's a good idea to run some steel wool up and down the fretboard to clean off any "gunk" and polish the frets slightly. After that, again just a little bit of linseed oil.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

7). Is there a preferred order that I should use to put the new strings on (low E first, the. a, etc). I couldn’t tell at all from the videos.

Through habit I tend to start with the D and G string and work outward ward in pairs as shown in the "Taylor" method. Once they're all strung I'll tension up the low E and move on one by one to the high E, then (with my thumb and first finger) will stretch the strings along their entire length. Finally, I will "fine tune" in reverse order until all 6 strings are in tune. Generally, increasing tension will throw all the other strings off but IME the thicker strings are more prone to this effect so I fine tune the thinner strings first.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

Is there anything else that I should be asking or thinking about?

It will usually take a little time for the strings to adjust to being under tension during the first day. Bear in mind that after a few days the tone will also "settle in." They will be "brash" for the first day or two, but after that they will "warm up" in what I call the "sweet spot." When the guitar begins to sound "ho hum" or the strings start to lose their luster after several weeks or months, then it's time to consider that another string change is coming due. To forestall that, keep a clean cloth handy to wipe them down after every playing session.

Originally Posted by Mike CT

Thanks!!
Mike

You're welcome!

[JoePa and Son]

This ^^^^^

I check to make sure with a lighted mirror. I can't tell for sure by sound or feel.

[HodgdonExtreme]

String change interval is totally subjective. I play an hour or so per day and find Elixr strings last me 6-8 weeks, my preferred Pearse strings 4-6 weeks. I change them when I notice their tone is off. Nothing to stress about.

Definitely UNDER oil/condition the fretboard rather than overdoing it. I don't think I even do it once a year. Eventually I'll notice it is looking dull and lousy so I'll condition it.

I think any of the winding techniques are fine. I came up with my own before the advent of the google machine, and have stuck with it. If my guitar is kept in an environmentally stable place, my tuning stays rock solid. I've received my guitar back from setups with different winding styles, and they've always worked just fine also.

I DO subscribe to only having ~2 wraps around the post with the bass side strings, but it's nothing to get wrapped around the axle about. :-)

Your bridge pins should go all the way in without having to force them.

Definitely give the strings a stretch, retune, stretch again and retune. I've found that two stretches and my tuning will be stable for the life of string. If you don't stretch, you'll retune your guitar every 20 minutes for a week.

[jim1960]

"1). What is a rule of thumb for how often to change strings?"
There are two reasons for changing strings: they're not holding tune any longer or you don't like the tone you're getting from your guitar. When either thing happens is anyone's guess, but I usually change strings every 3-4 weeks on average.

"2) should I use lemon oil every time that I change the strings?"
The only thing I ever do to my fretboards is give them a good wipe with a dry clean cloth. I've never heard of a guitar going into the shop because of a lack of lemon oil.

"4) it seems like videos show two different ways to start winding around the post."
I use the Martin method but that's because the Martin method was what I learned many decades back and I've never had a good reason to change it. I suspect you'll be fine with whichever method you choose.

"5) when you push bridge pins down is there a hard limit how far each goes down, or does it get tighter and tighter so that I need to be very mindful of how hard I’m pushing down?"
"Snug" is probably the best word to describe it. I put the string in the hole, then the bridge pin. Before I start winding, I give the string a good tug to seat the end against the pin.

"6). Some videos show taking off the old strings but cutting and others show you taking them all off of the post first and then from the bridge? Is there a benefit to cutting them? Seems like more work for the same result?"
I've found cutting the strings to be quicker but it may not seem so to everyone. That said, I do loosen the strings before I cut them. Safer that way.

"7). Is there a preferred order that I should use to put the new strings on (low E first, the. a, etc). I couldn’t tell at all from the videos."
I work my way from closest to the nut to farthest so that there's never a string in my way. My order is thus:
Low E, A, D
High E, B, G.


The only other things I can think of worth mentioning are these:
1 - Be careful when you cut the extra string from the tuners after winding. You're going to leave sharp points on the end which can easily impale your finger.
2 - When winding the strings and bringing up the tension, bridge pins will sometimes pop out of their holes a little bit. Keep an eye on that and push them back in when it happens.

[islandguitar]

Just thought of one other item which I don't think has been mentioned.
Before I insert the ball end of the string into the hole, I put a slight bend in the string at the winding (half inch or so above the ball). About a 30-45 degree angle. This "assists" the ball end to slide into the hole and makes things easier with inserting the bridge pin and locking down the ball against the bridge plate. I know lots of folks incorporate this into their routine.
I change strings about once every 3-5 weeks, more if I'm playing a lot or recording a lot.
Have fun!

[HodgdonExtreme]

If you don't already have a nice set of wire cutters, I highly recommend Knipex brand. They're the BEST.



http://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-5-...-125/205944269

Available cheaper online if you shop.

These allow you to get super close so you don't leave a sharp little tail exposed to cut yourself on later. Far far superior to the lousy little cutter thing integrated into the cheap string winding tools.

[guitar george]

I use this type that also gets in nice and close and it is easy to see where you're at.

CUTTER.jpg