The more time I spend with slotted headstocks, the less I like them

[Silly Moustache]

Ah, I see from the stringing on the H&D what you are doing wrong, which, of course makes it more difficult.

I find it best to string the 1st and 6th string with the windings going to the outside, and the rest the the inside.

See:

Note that I change strings with the guitar on it's back - no messing abut with moving the guitar about.

One point - I've modified my cutting a little to give a few more windings to ensure that the strings are as straight as possible over the nut - and these are my suggesting cutting points :
1st : 3.5-4"
2nd: ditto
3rd :ditto
4th :3- 3.5"
5th : 2.5-3"
6th : 2 -2.5"

This ensures that strings are as parallel as possible and don't cross over each other.
Also note that I string from the outside in - 6,1,5,2,4,3.

Last Sunday I restring four of my slot heads - including a clean and polish it took about 15 minutes each. - Half if I don't do the preening bit.

I accept that matters can be more difficult on older guitars and some Nationals with narrower slots.

I'll try your method next time I restring one of my slab-heads.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

You know what I'm going to say Paul, I would have wound 1 and 6 strings to the outside to keep the string path more in line with the nut groove... but hey, that's just me.
They look close to touching the headstock in my picture ... but they don't.

Yup, my method too - perfect.

[john57classic]

I was going to suggest some things already posted, but in reality they won't help you. The only thing that will is relieving yourself of the burden of it all by...
SENDING THE GUITAR TO ME!!
Please PM for address

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Yup, my method too - perfect.

I wind the 1st and 6th string inwards, the 3rd and 4th outwards, to minimise damage to the edge of the slots.

[downtime]

Agreed, they are kind of a pain but they just look so darn cool!
I've found that hanging the headstock over the edge of the workbench or kitchen counter, pre-cutting the string lengths and using a powered string winder makes things much easier.

[markallen]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

I find it best to string the 1st and 6th string with the windings going to the outside, and the rest the the inside.

This is exactly the way I string mine as well and have never had any problems. It takes me no longer whatsoever to change strings on my slotted vs. flat headstocks.

Cheers,
Mark

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by Tony Done

I wind the 1st and 6th string inwards, the 3rd and 4th outwards, to minimise damage to the edge of the slots.

The strings come close on my guitar Tony, but they don't touch the headstock slots.

[Tony Done]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

The strings come close on my guitar Tony, but they don't touch the headstock slots.

Good demo. Mine don't have any clearance like that. The slots are very narrow, and I get some damage regardless.

[devellis]

Originally Posted by Silly Moustache

Ah, I see from the stringing on the H&D what you are doing wrong, which, of course makes it more difficult.

Just to be clear, the Huss & Dalton, as pictured, is how the previous owner strung it. Even I did a somewhat better job than he or she did. But I can relate to the frustration that led that previous owner to conclude, "Hey, the strings aren't flying off. Ugly, but good enough!"

When I traded that H&D for something else, I gave the other party the choice between taking the 00-SP and the 00 Standard that I also had. The 00-SP was rosewood; the Standard, mahogany. I realized that the 00-SP was worth more but the offset was that I'd be rid of one slot-head if he chose that one, which he did.

[Hoyt]

Learned my lesson on a classical and a D12-35. The D12-35 did it for me.

If I'm in a hurry, I can change strings on a paddle-head guitar in 5 minutes, maybe a bit more, not counting tuning. I can't say I would never have another slot-head, but it would have to be something very special. I like newish strings and change often. Slot-heads do look nice, but I just don't have the patience for changing the stings on them.

[Glennwillow]

Hi Bob,

I understand your complaints about slot head guitars. I have a couple that are both 12-frets, oh yes, and one classical, and I am okay with the little bit of extra effort required. But I have heard many, many players echo similar complaints like yours.

- Glenn

[Brucebubs]

Originally Posted by Glennwillow

Hi Bob,

But I have heard many, many players echo similar complaints like yours.

- Glenn

Just wait till Wade Hampton sees this thread!

[mr. beaumont]

You "have to precut the string?"

Silliness.

[tippy5]

I too vote for non slot-heads.
(Although I wouldn't kick a Froggy adi/Honduran small body out of the shed.)

Picking, owning, playing, restringing.... sometimes the minutest spec or issue can wreck the whole party.

I wonder 100 years from now what the headstocks will be.
Maybe tuners that mid playing move to pitch?

30's, and earlier, Martins with slot-heads sure have the look though.

[Pitar]

I play a classical so I'm held captive by that headstock. Still, I find it to be easy enough to change strings. Both ends of that guitar require technique well beyond the simple peg-wrap or R&R of a bridge pin. A couple times doing that and it all comes together well enough, though.

I don't measure out and cut strings. I pass each plain string through the hole in the tuner capstan and flip it back through creating a loop on one side. Then, I run the free end around the capstan, through the loop and cinch the loop tight by pulling on the string. That locks it on the turner capstan and the string winder takes out the little bit of slack I leave in each string. Then, I snip off the flying ends after the strings are taught enough to be secure. It's the bridge side that requires fiddling with to get right. I like to capture the free ends of the strings at the bridge by securing them in place using the next string wrap, and so on, until ending with the high E string. The high E string has to be wound in the opposite direction to the other strings because the free end must naturally lie towards them. Then, I loosen the B string loop at the bridge and slip the high E string free end through it where the G string free end is also secured. It looks neat and keeps the free ends from playing against the finish of the guitar. Total time is maybe 15 or 20 minutes but it never makes me late to dinner.