|
|
#2
11-26-2010, 05:32 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Hello Tom
A truss rod tweak may be needed but .12's on that model Yamaha should do it no harm.
__________________
VintageParlorGuitars.com Fresh inventory just added, click link at left to view 
|
|
#3
11-26-2010, 06:34 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
You can easily put .012's on it. It might require some truss-rod tweaking, but that's no big deal.
whm
|
|
#4
11-26-2010, 07:19 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
One consideration is what was on it from the factory. If 10's were the stock string, you may - or may not - need a little adjustment. If 11's or 12's came on it you likely won't. Either way you'll be fine with the 12's.
|
|
#6
11-27-2010, 12:37 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
They won't have to be on very long - probbly a day will do it. Clock-wise, 1/4 turn, then play it a few minutes, then continue w/ another 1/4 turn at a time until finished. BE CAREFUL unless you know what you're doing...
12's are what used to be called "regular" light gauge, until a couple years ago. If that Yamaha is 5 years old or more, it probably came with 12's on it. After having 10's on it, 12's will sound...err... QUITE a bit LOUDER! Let her sing out a little more... Good luck! Report back on how it goes and how she sounds with 12's! (I already know your fingertips are gonna hurt for a while...  )
__________________
"Home is where I hang my hat, but home is so much more than that. Home is where the ones and the things I hold dear are near... And I always find my way back home." "Home" (working title) J.S, Sherman
|
|
#7
11-27-2010, 03:05 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Go with 12s and sin no more
I can't imagine ever putting 10s on an acoustic guitar. They just don't exert enough bridge pull to make much of a sound. You'll hear a new guitar with the 12s on it.
If you don't have the strings yet, try the regular Martin light gauge strings. I love them. Great sound, play easily and last a long time. By regular Martin I mean the plain ones, not the SP, the SP+, or the coated strings.
|
|
#8
11-27-2010, 04:28 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#9
11-27-2010, 06:54 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
In a recent thread
http://69.41.173.82/forums/showthread.php?t=195610 there were two schools of thought on what happens when you change string gauge. It's possible that the neck relief will need to be adjusted. It's also possible that the top moves and may require a different saddle height. Another factor not mentioned in the linked thread is the player. An action that is 'good enough' for strumming Kumbayah at a campfire may not be good enough for a fingerstyle performing artist playing above fret 5. So, go head and tighten the truss rod. If you are at the point where you get fret rattle and the action is still too high, a lower saddle is the next step. Myself, I like to work with data so I would measure the relief (with feeler gauges) and action at the 12th fret (with an accurate ruler scaled for 32nds or 64ths). Then I would change strings and remeasure. Then adjust relief and / or saddle to suit. All this assumes the original action is acceptable.
__________________
2009 CA Cargo Raw, 2006 Collings OM-1 SS light build, 2004 Taylor 714ce, 2000 Taylor 310K, 1991 Martin HD-28, 1971 Martin 0-18, 1967 Guild F-30 2006 Ovation Legend 6756LX 12 string, 2004 Taylor 354ce 12 string, 1976 Guild G312-NT 12 string (dreadnaught shape) 1966 Martin T-15 tiple, Mele koa ukulele
|
|
#10
11-27-2010, 08:34 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I have several friends who run that light strings. One is in his mid-70s and no longer has the hand strength to manage heavier ones, plus he has limited use of his picking hand (fingerstyler). So he uses .010s. I have another who had carpel tunnel surgery on both hands and has to cut back on anything stressful (he played .013 and beefed them up before). It was .010s or quit playing altogether. Another friend plays primarily electric and plays acoustic for around the house at night when the baby and wife are down for the night. He doesn't want the action to change over what he's playing on his Les Paul...hence .010. And I know a lot of young students, who go that light initially and then step up as hand strength and resilience increase. There are no rules, and I have a handbuilt guitar that was built for that light of play. It will take .012 (not braced for .013), and have recorded with it strung that lightly, and the tone is as amazing with .010 as with .012.
__________________
Baby #1.1 Baby #1.2 Baby #02 Baby #03 Baby #04 Baby #05 Larry's songs... …Just because you've argued someone into silence doesn't mean you have convinced them…
|
|
#11
11-27-2010, 08:38 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
We have a friend who used to be so uptight all the time that everyone would say to him (frequently)…loosen up Nate! That is half of the truss rod equation…
And Nate helped me to learn it. For a long time when I needed to tweak a truss rod I'd start by saying ''Loosen up Nate…'', smile and do the necessary adjusting.
__________________
Baby #1.1 Baby #1.2 Baby #02 Baby #03 Baby #04 Baby #05 Larry's songs... …Just because you've argued someone into silence doesn't mean you have convinced them…
|
|
#12
11-27-2010, 09:37 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
One thing to think about is that you MIGHT have troubles with the nut. If the nut was cut for lights and you try to put mediums in it, they likely won't go all the way to the bottom of the slot. This can result in high action at the nut and also some crazy buzzing that will be hard to diagnose (because it can sound like it's coming from the bridge). You might also get that "pop" when bring a string up to pitch.
You might not have any issues at all, but if any of these symptoms arise, you should have the nut looked at by a pro.
__________________
Paul Woolson
|
|
#13
11-27-2010, 09:53 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
)
|
