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  #16  
Old 07-21-2017, 05:07 PM
redir redir is offline
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Now THAT is an interesting idea. I never would have thought about just painting it in. I may even have to try that on my current mandolin with a similar problem.
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2017, 02:18 PM
emmsone emmsone is offline
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So I still don't fancy routing the bindings off, and I'm not convinced about heating the bindings off, i don't know how i can do that without the glue on the linings coming undone too.

I did find this a very useful comment though..... Thanks John!
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Arnold View Post
I have touched up black and white plastic purfling with acrylic artist colors. If you do it after the stainig/pore filling/sealer, then it will more likely survive until you get a few coats of lacquer on it. It also will survive better if you cut a shallow groove to hold the paint.
I'm not a painter and I don't have the right type of required paint, BUT i had recently ordered some of this Glu-boost stuff from LMI with their fillers, and that arrived this week, luckily i'd ordered the black and white filler set.

I tried to blow the black dust out of the small gap that was making the previous repair appear so obvious, this didnt really do much so I scalpelled the grove out and i tried my best to fill this gap with white filler and Glu Boost.
It looks waaaaay better, but still a long way from perfect. I might repeat this process later and try (hope) to get a better result, before I do any finishing, but for now i'm not happy, but i'm happier than before.
The other gaps around the curved purfling will be filled with the black filler, these gaps were the reason I bought the Glu-boost to start with.

Untitled by David Emm, on Flickr
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