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#77
02-23-2018, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
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#78
02-23-2018, 08:12 AM
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If I pay for a bone saddle, I’d better get a bone saddle, done perfectly.
I wouldn’t accept a botched job requiring a shim. Why that seems accceptable, I’m not sure. And since it’s my job, the opinions of those not involved in paying for the job, are secondary.
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McCollum Grand Auditorum Euro Spruce/Brazilian PRS Hollowbody Spruce PRS SC58 Giffin Vikta Gibson Custom Shop ES 335 '59 Historic RI ‘91 Les Paul Standard ‘52 AVRI Tele - Richie Baxt build Fender American Deluxe Tele Fender Fat Strat
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#79
02-23-2018, 08:12 AM
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It is all about perception.
If you knew there was a shim then it wouldn't sound right. If you didn't know there was a shim and believed there wasn't then it would sound perfect. It is like if you knew it was 20 below zero your car would not start. If you didn't know then it would start just fine. I do not use shims except to determine the right saddle height then cut a new saddle to the right height. The reason, for me, is the longer the saddle is in the slot the less torque is applied to the slot and the less chance of cracking the bridge. With that said a new saddle should be made.
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"My opinion is worth every penny you paid for it." "If you try to play like someone else, Who will play like you". Quote from Johnny Gimble The only musician I have to impress today is the musician I was yesterday. No tubes, No capos, No Problems.
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#81
02-23-2018, 10:14 AM
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I had a new saddle made once by a "guitar repair" professional. I never liked the sound when I got it home. Thought I needed new strings. I popped the saddle out and he had shimmed his mistake with a length of wound guitar string! I called my bank and canceled his check. He refused a do over, said he does this a lot and it works fine. No more business from me!
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#82
02-23-2018, 10:34 AM
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A while back I lowered the saddle on my S12 to lower the action, and I sanded off a bit too much and found some buzzing. It's clearly a fret height issue, I can see where it's happening, and at some point I'll get it fixed properly, but in the meantime I put a length of thin electrical wire under the saddle to raise it back up a bit, and I guarantee there was zero difference in sound. A bit later, during a re-string, I removed the wire and replaced it with strips of thin brass foil, figuring this would be a better longer-term solution that wouldn't concentrate so much force on the top under the saddle. Again, zero difference in sound.
Which isn't to say I'd be happy paying someone else to do this job and then finding he'd shimmed it with a strip of electrical wire, that's sloppy and unprofessional. But I'm a pragmatic results-oriented amateur, and since there is zero difference in sound, and since at least with the brass foil I can't see any reason it would cause any damage or other problems, well-shimmed saddles work perfectly fine.
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'17 Tonedevil S-18 harp guitar '16 Tonedevil S-12 harp guitar '79 Fender Stratocaster hardtail with righteous new Warmoth neck '82 Fender Musicmaster bass '15 Breedlove Premier OF mandolin Marshall JVM210c amp plus a bunch of stompboxes and misc. gear
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