#16
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Quote:
Water didn't seem to make much difference, a little moisture seemed to help a little. Using more didn't help with bending, but it did make it set up harder and more difficult to rebend. I suspect binding at 0.08" thickness would not be too bad, but any thicker might be difficult.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#17
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Here's a couple more bloodwood guitars. If you like red, it's the real deal...
Iirc I took the side down to 0.060" for the cutaway bend. Well, there were pics there. No idea why they won't post.... |
#18
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Here's a combination of clark walnut with quilted sapele binding. Just the right amount of contrast to my eye. The black/white helps set it off too.
http://ivorypalaces.blogspot.com/201...-baritone.html (look at the last pic) |
#19
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Right!
Here are those pics! Both in bloodwood, with Venetian cutaway thinned to ~ 0.060" north of the waist. I used a bit of damp towel between the pipe and the wood when bending. |
#20
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I just finished a OM build a couple of weeks ago that I used bloodwood bindings on. I bent good with a blanket in my mold. When I went to bend some pieces by hand on a hot pipe I noticed it was a little more challenging. about the time it would start bending it would snap.
Otherwise I love the look. |
#21
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You might consider padauk as an alternative to bloodwood. Padauk is fairly easy to bend, readily available (in North America, at least), easily obtained quartered and with little runout.
Neck, back and sides of padauk: |
#22
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Quote:
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#23
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Makore might look nice. You can find some here: http://rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store/bin...gs-p-3026.html.
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#24
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Another vote for maple...it would look real sharp against that dark walnut.
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Otterhound View Post Please don't confuse me with actually being worthy of being called a luthier . Quote:
i think that was meant in a humble way. |