How do I make this playable?

[sedandelivery]

I have an older japanese made guitar that I am itching to fix up. I've done a little bit of set up work, and I'm assembling a partscaster, but I really know nothing about work on acoustics. Besides getting some tuners, what should I do about attaching a bridge? There is obviously not a nice, flush service to work on. Do I need to fill it to make it flush? Can I glue one on the way it is? How do I know what bridge/saddle to buy? I assume I would need to figure out the string space and the scale length. Is this correct? As far as I can tell the neck angle is fine. Any help would be appreciated. I bought this guitar for 3 dollars, so I'm not afraid to screw it up, and it doesn't need to look super perfect, but I would like to make it into a nice player.

[gregsguitars]

It will cost more in tools that you will need than the guitar will be worth, stewmac has an online web store for luthier supplies.I would say you at least need a few cauls, bridge clamps/vise(s),good sharp chisels, bridge material, bridge plate material, plugging material,punches,glue,machined accurate straight edge(s) and several reference books covering acoustic guitar repair and builds, but hey life is a gamble ,roll the dice and enjoy yourself, remember that it will take time and not to rush the process.Greg

[naccoachbob]

Bear in mind, I'm an absolute newbie in making guitars. I've just finished my first from a kit. So I'm not as well learned as Greg is, by any stretch. I'm thinking outloud about how I'd do it if I had the same situation. Contact Kenneth Michaels guitars: http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/
Look at his web site bridge setter and clamp and read the tutorial he has. You have to deal with scale length like you said. It's just a matter of measuring from the nut to the 12th fret (simplified), and doubling that. And then you have to add in compensation, which his site deals with in that tutorial. Also, there's the matter of the vertical part - explained there also. I'm not sure how you'd deal with all the material that's been eaten away where the previous bridge was. Perhaps if there's enough material to make a smooth "bottom", you might get some spruce to lay in the cavity to make it flush up to the rest of the top. Remember, the top is concave somewhat, so once the patch is flush, keep in mind that it needs a little bit of a crown. (The bridge bottom will be sanded to mate with the patch also).
Ken's tools to locate the bridge and to mount it would cost you less than a century note. But if you intend to build later on, it's just an early investment in the tools you would need. Greg's right, it could cost you well over what it's worth. But it seems like a fun project to me. If you're near me in Texas, I'd be happy to work with you on it.
Bob

[sedandelivery]

Hmm, a bigger job than I thought. Well, the good news is that this is something I would like to get into, so maybe I will invest in some supplies in the near future. I will check out that Kenneth Michaels site as soon as I get a chance, and thanks for the invitation Bob, but I'm in Boston, so not too close, ha, oh well.

[martinedwards]

on a more positive note.........

it cost $3 and you want to learn.

worst case scenario is you loose $3, but before you even get there, you get to top destroyed and you get to learn how to make a new top........

OK, to make it PLAYABLE (not sounding like a prewar Martin or anything, just PLAYABLE......

preferably cheap........

what I'd do it get a bridge on there. but you'll need to fill that big hole there first,

the bridge plate would proably LIKE to be replaced, but for now, lets try to get away with it.

I'd fill the holes, all of them, with dowel tapered like a bridge pin (for the bridge pin holes) and straight for the others. you don't want then sticking out inside so try to get them as flush as possible on the inside as getting at them to sand them later will be a nightmare.

ordinary white wood glue for the job.

then remove & replace the ripped wood in the middle. get a nice straight edge and chisel down to the bridgeplate underneath, but not into it.

fill this gap with a tight fitting piece of spruce. again regular white wood glue.

sand smooth with the top.

make or buy a bridge.

siting it is easier than you think. pretend that you have an archtop with a floating bridge. make a tailstop from a piece of scrap and move the bridge around until the harmonic at the 12th fret pretty much matches the fretted note. you'll only need to check the outer two strings as the others are in between (duh!!)

here's a thread on another forum which shows how I cut a new saddle slot on a righty to make it lefty, but it shows the process.

http://www.jsguitarforum.com/forum/s...d.php?t=101738

once you have it placed, glue it down and drill the holes.

in a perfect world you'd have a reamer the right taper, but on a $3 guitar?

a straight drill bit then a fine dowel with a little sand paper of a fine file will taper the hole just fine.

sort the intonation like this......

http://www.jsguitarforum.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=76609

get playing!!

this is NOT a perfect fix, but it should get it playing and you'll learn a bunch in the process!!

Good luck

[gregsguitars]

Also Dan Erlwine did a tutorial on the bridge area ,like yours, he actuall shaved very thin strips of spruce with a similar grain pattern and soaked them in hide glue and layered them to the damaged area, allowing plenty of drying time between layers once he had a slightly higher area he lightly fine sanded the repaired area down to where he needed it and reinstalled the bridge , after plugging all the string pin holes and re-tapping them, it is a lot of work, I would watch as many online videos as possible before attempting this (these) repairs.

[Tom347]

hello sedandelivery

I've just joined and been looking thru all the posts for a guitar similar to one i have just got hold of.(See my first post) Mine has no id on it at all. Did you ever start and/or finish your project? And what make is the one you have/had please?

thanks

Tom.