#31
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Thanks for the response. That'll work.
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#32
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Quote:
I use the shims on a new build to get the straight edge to clear the fingerboard extension on a new build also. When it is all said and done I ramp the fingerboard extension off a little bit. There is a lot more to the ramping thing if ya' wanna' hear about it. There are lots of options there. Assuming that you are using a 1/4" thick fingerboard and a 5/16" thick bridge, the rule of thumb that I go by is, the plane of the fingerboard surface goes to the top of the bridge on an old guitar, 1/32" over the top of the bridge on a new, small body, guitar, and 1/16" over the top of the bridge on a new, big body, guitar. You can read Cumpiano's Newsletters. If you read through our thread about the neck re-set on the Martin J-40 M, you can see that sometimes you have to throw the rule book out and just go with what Ya' got. Like Arie said in post #2. You probably really won't learn how to do one until Ya' screw one up, and then have to fix it. Experience is that thing that teaches you how to recognize your mistakes when you make them again. And if none of that works for Ya, don't do it that way. Lots of options on how to "Git er done!". Glen |
#33
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1. See pic below, that is a neck angle 2. Measure your neck the same way, that is the angle you should use 3. You really don't want to change it if you can help it, you want to build the complimentary angle into the body (in this case the body angle would be 91.3 to = 180), if it is slightly off you may need to make corrections 4. Depends if it is a bolt-on, dovetail or other
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Tim B |
#34
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Bolt-on methodology
Chek out this site: http://forums.washburn.com/topic.asp:TOPICid=15320 or [email protected] can also be contacted thru Frets.net or at 650 218 0248. He's a pro and he's done a ALOT of them (bolt-ons)
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