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#16
12-07-2012, 07:47 AM
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Ok, well these guys think it's not a good idea to lube a fret file:
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-tech...ning-file.html Which actually makes sense, because you sure as hell don't want some sort of oil seeping into your neck, or even water for that matter. This guy might have a solution for me: "There's no substitute for a light touch when crowining. Use a light touch and I don't think you'll have any problems at all crowning with no lube at all." So perhaps I'm pushing and pressing too hard with the fret file. I'll try less pressure, and lighter touch next time, and I'll see if the scratches are less deep. 
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#17
12-07-2012, 08:24 AM
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Paul678: A bit more info to consider. Make a holder for your 400,600,etc. paper out of wood. Make it similar to your fret file,wrap the paper on the holder and then work your frets. I try to cover the whole fret even if the mark is in one spot,try to take the same amount of rubs on each fret,then when finished check for low or high frets. As some one else mentioned,magnifying glasses are a BIG help in seeing things clearer...................................at least at my age.!!!
Tom
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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything Last edited by Tom West; 12-07-2012 at 09:25 AM.
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#18
12-07-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Experienced guitar tech and singer/guitarist based in the midlands, England. McIlroy AJ50 Yamaha CPX-1200 Yamaha CPX-700/12 Yamaha LS16 Yamaha FG-300 Yamaha FG-580 Vox V2000-DR + electric guitars..
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#19
12-07-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Yes, I'm using their 300 grit diamond fret file. It still leaves fairly deep scratches, at least when I'm using it. Someone else mentioned they try to clean the filings out of the file every few frets...maybe that will help. To Tom: yes, I use a 10x eye loupe now, and it helps tremendously. I'd say my technique has improved quite a bit, but I still see some faint file marks I'd like to get out.... Ok, I just figured out that I can get the occasional deep scratch out with a few swipes of 320 sandpaper (followed by 400, 600, and then steel wool). I didn't use 320 in the past, because the crowning file itself is supposedly 300, so I'd hesitate to do an overall sanding along the strings (perpendicular to the frets), because that might ruin my leveling, which was itself done with 320 taped to a level. I've also stopped masking the fretboard, so that's another reason I want to stick to finer grits after crowning. But since there are only a few really deep scratches along the whole neck, I've spot sanded those with 320, and it's much better now. The eye loupe is great, but if I can't really see the scratch with the naked eye, I don't really bother. Also, if the scratch is right in the middle of the fret (where the strings touch) then I'll leave it, knowing the string is going to grind it away anyways. Thanks much for the feedback. Prevention is the best medicine, so I'm gonna use the fret file more lightly next time, and see if things are smoother....
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#20
12-07-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
 And if you can't hear it with the "naked ear" ...
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#22
12-07-2012, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
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#24
12-07-2012, 07:04 PM
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FWIW, I was taught by John LaRocque at Ring Music in Toronto how to do fretwork. I also learned some good stuff at an ASIA convention in 1997. We (John and I) would always finish sanding with 800 or 1000 grit, then complete with extra fine steel wool.
Presently, I still finish my fret sanding with 800 or 1000 (depending upon my mood and the stubbornness of the frets) and then use a "scotchbrite" style pad (replaces steel wool, not as messy) to finish the frets. (For the Canadians on this forum, Canadian tire has a grey pad that works great!) I used to sand as Charles does with paper and fingers, but after doing many fret jobs at the shop where I used to work (sometimes 2 a day, up to half a dozen or maybe more per week) and tiring out my finger pads and knuckles, I came upon a technique that I now use all the time. Instead of using fingers and sandpaper, I wrap a round pencil (or similar dowel - bamboo chopstick, whatever) with a couple layers of fabric or just use that scotchbrite pad mentioned above. Then I fold sandpaper around the pencil/fabric and holding it tight, use it parallel with the frets sanding back and forth along the length of the fingerboard. (You don't need to make full-length strokes, but you do need to give each portion of each fret the same attention so they are sanded an equal amount.) I have found that this method cleans the crowning file marks much better than I used to be able to do by fingers & sandpaper alone, and it finishes the profile of the crown quite well. Photo here of frets on one of my guitars. Permalink: http://www.handcraftedguitars.ca/2012/12/07/fretwork/
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
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