Buzzing string

[deztone]

Hi all.

I'm getting some buzzing behind where I'm fretting on one or two lower strings. It seems to happen more when playing a big chord around the seventh or eighth fret - when the string has some space to rattle behind the chord. I wondered if maybe this was a truss rod relief issue? Or nut slot height? Or is this expected on a resonant instrument? Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks in advance. Dez.

[donh]

It could be either a nut-height or a neck relief issue.

It all falls to geometry, should you know how to measure. Check the neck relief first, as that is the easiest fix. If the neck is flat or almost exactly so, add a couple thousandths of relief (not much more, as too much neck bend creates other problems) and you'll be fine.

[Ned Milburn]

A fret or two that is higher than the others can cause buzzes limited to the few preceding frets. You should likely have it looked at by an experienced and skillful guitar builder or guitar tech. Careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment can minimize buzzing of offending (high) frets.

[steveyam]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

Careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment can minimize buzzing of offending (high) frets.

The truss rod is nothing whatsoever to do with fixing problems due to offending frets. It is there to provide strength to the neck and, to adjust the 'straightness' of the same so as to provide an amount of relief if required. Problematic or offending frets are another matter and need to be dealt with as such. Once any fret problems are sorted out, then the truss rod can be finally set to provide the required relief. It's like putting more air into your tyres to get a higher road clearance. It's not the fix.

Lots of people think the truss rod is there to adjust the action too.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by steveyam

The truss rod is nothing whatsoever to do with fixing problems due to offending frets. It is there to provide strength to the neck and, to adjust the 'straightness' of the same so as to provide an amount of relief if required. Problematic or offending frets are another matter and need to be dealt with as such. Once any fret problems are sorted out, then the truss rod can be finally set to provide the required relief. It's like putting more air into your tyres to get a higher road clearance. It's not the fix.

Lots of people think the truss rod is there to adjust the action too.

I'll quote my last point with a few extra words and commentary to fully explain.

"Careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment can HELP MINIMIZE buzzing of offending (high) frets."

Addition of the word "help" for clarity. The phrase above also implies that careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment will not CORRECT, only MINIMIZE, buzzing of offending high frets. Poor adjustment of a truss rod and saddle on guitars with difficult frets can cause the buzzing to be more pronounced. Hence, my choice of word, minimize.

I think that's very understandable to all.

[steveyam]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

I'll quote my last point with a few extra words and commentary to fully explain.

"Careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment can HELP MINIMIZE buzzing of offending (high) frets."

Addition of the word "help" for clarity. The phrase above also implies that careful truss rod and/or saddle adjustment will not CORRECT, only MINIMIZE, buzzing of offending high frets. Poor adjustment of a truss rod and saddle on guitars with difficult frets can cause the buzzing to be more pronounced. Hence, my choice of word, minimize.

I think that's very understandable to all.

Agreed, if the truss rod is set incorrectly in the first place. In other words, it is not used as a tool to fix poor frets per se, but in setting it correctly, the byproduct of that action could help with a fret problem. And I'm not saying there is a fretting problem in this case - I just got into this discussion!

[deztone]

Thanks for the replies.

The guitar in this case is only a few months old. Not to say that rules frets out but I have checked and I can't see any problems there. Since buying it (recording king rd-316) i have replaced the nut having over filed the stock one (oops) so I wondered about the nut slots but they seem ok I think . I'll check again that the frets are flat and also check the neck relief. Hopefully that will solve this - ill report back anyway.
Thanks again....
Dez

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by deztone

Thanks for the replies.

The guitar in this case is only a few months old. Not to say that rules frets out but I have checked and I can't see any problems there. Since buying it (recording king rd-316) i have replaced the nut having over filed the stock one (oops) so I wondered about the nut slots but they seem ok I think . I'll check again that the frets are flat and also check the neck relief. Hopefully that will solve this - ill report back anyway.
Thanks again....
Dez

Keep in mind that many brand new factory guitars will require fret jobs within the first year or two, just to level off any frets that may be out of height alignment. Consider the fact that many factory guitars are built in 10 hours or less, coupled with the fact that frets can shift (lift) slightly as the tangs and burrs settle into the wood squeezing them in place, and it is easily understandable that the frets become slightly unlevel.

I had a few instruments come to my workshop in the last few months - one was a 1980's Ibanez artist jazz guitar (hollowbody electric) that had nearly zero fret wear, but some frets were higher than others. One fret was clearly loose. Another guitar had hung on a music store wall for 2-3 years and at point of sale, although it was still "brand new" and without any fret wear from playing the instrument, its frets were out of alignment and needed leveling and recrowning, which in turn requires a setup (at very least to fine tune the nut slots). This experience should be considered par for the course, considering factory manufacturing methods. A hand built guitar should avoid most of this issue, since more time and care is taken seating and leveling every single fret.

[deztone]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

Keep in mind that many brand new factory guitars will require fret jobs within the first year or two, just to level off any frets that may be out of height alignment. Consider the fact that many factory guitars are built in 10 hours or less, coupled with the fact that frets can shift (lift) slightly as the tangs and burrs settle into the wood squeezing them in place, and it is easily understandable that the frets become slightly unlevel.

I had a few instruments come to my workshop in the last few months - one was a 1980's Ibanez artist jazz guitar (hollowbody electric) that had nearly zero fret wear, but some frets were higher than others. One fret was clearly loose. Another guitar had hung on a music store wall for 2-3 years and at point of sale, although it was still "brand new" and without any fret wear from playing the instrument, its frets were out of alignment and needed leveling and recrowning, which in turn requires a setup (at very least to fine tune the nut slots). This experience should be considered par for the course, considering factory manufacturing methods. A hand built guitar should avoid most of this issue, since more time and care is taken seating and leveling every single fret.

Wise words, I hadn't considered that. Having checked it seems that one fret is slightly higher and causing the problem! So off to the tech it goes I guess.