#1
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Saddle height and string angle - input needed
Looking for some input here,
The string height at the 12th fret is about .110", 2.8mm, 7/64" I would like to lower it just a bit as I'm using this guitar for fingerstyle more. I'm concerned about the height of the saddle or string angle from the bridge. It is a Colosi bone saddle on a Yamaha LL6...I'll show some pics to generate some input, and, perhaps have you folks ask some additional questions if needed. |
#2
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That string break angle is only just about ok now. Take any more off the saddle and - to my liking - the break angle will be too shallow. It'll probably work, but it's not optimum. Using the correct tools, you just have to deepen the slots leading from the bridge pins to the saddle. That will re-instate a good break angle. If you don't have the tools, then take it to a recommended competent tech.
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Experienced guitar tech and singer/guitarist based in the midlands, England. McIlroy AJ50 Yamaha CPX-1200 Yamaha CPX-700/12 Yamaha LS16 Yamaha FG-300 Yamaha FG-580 Vox V2000-DR + electric guitars.. Last edited by steveyam; 11-26-2012 at 01:31 AM. |
#3
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You need to take off 1/32 to lower the action 1/64 at the 12th. That is not going to leave much, if any saddle left and will only yield 6/64 for you.
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Tim B |
#4
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I appreciate the help folks...I've done a handful of saddle set ups in the past. I think with this one I'll take it into my local shop and see what they say. I've got a few other guitars to cover me while this one is out.
Appreciate the input! |
#5
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As I often say, I think you guys in the US have better 'in-store' techs than we do in the UK. Mostly, someone with no more experience and equipment than an allen wrench is nominated as the shop tech and he does the 'set-ups'. In truth, such guys know very little about setting up a guitar, and it is dangerous to let them loose on your guitars. It really is. So, please, just be sure that the guy in your "local shop" is a real, experienced tech, and not just the nominated truss rod twiddler who doubles as a storeman/shophand.
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Experienced guitar tech and singer/guitarist based in the midlands, England. McIlroy AJ50 Yamaha CPX-1200 Yamaha CPX-700/12 Yamaha LS16 Yamaha FG-300 Yamaha FG-580 Vox V2000-DR + electric guitars.. |
#6
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It's hard to tell on my cell phone screen, but it looks like the bridge on that guitar is tilting forward. It also looks like the bridge is thicker behind the saddle, like someone shaved it in the past...poorly. How old is the guitar? Seems like you need a neck reset to me...but again, I am looking at this on an iPhone, so not the biggest screen out there.
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#7
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Quote:
There are a few shops around Portland. I use the 12th Fret and have been pleased with the service and work. I'll let you folks know how it goes. |
#8
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Listen, this is what to do.
Remove sufficient material from the bottom of your saddle to achieve your desired action. I'm assuming you know how to adjust a truss rod for relief etc. If not, this is not a job for you. The bottom of the saddle must be FLAT and perpendicular. Then, recut those bridge slots to be deeper, to enable the strings to approach the saddle at a steeper angle with more downpull. Again you need specialist tools to do that - available from Stewmac - if you don't have them, again this is not a job for you. NOTE! The lowering of the action may throw up fret height inconsistencies that will need addressing by a fret dress. Again, a specialist job with specialist tools. Do all that, job done. No neck resets needed etc etc etc. It's a fairly standard setup job for a good tech. Pure and simple. I don't know what all this pontification and conjecture is all about from the guessing brigade. But it's normal, and it creates good reading and adds drama to what is otherwise a fairly mundane issue
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Experienced guitar tech and singer/guitarist based in the midlands, England. McIlroy AJ50 Yamaha CPX-1200 Yamaha CPX-700/12 Yamaha LS16 Yamaha FG-300 Yamaha FG-580 Vox V2000-DR + electric guitars.. |
#9
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I don't see any string ramps in that bridge right now. But, you could just use a set of hobby files that can be had for $6.00 at a big box store to add the ramps in the bridge. Once established with the thinnest of the files, it is a simple matter of making them angle closer to the saddle and getting them wide enough to accept their respective strings.
Despite what most everyone seems to believe, you can not adjust the action on a guitar using the truss rod. The truss rod is only designed to add or remove relief in the neck. Yes, removing some relief will lower the action for the frets between the nut and body joint, but not to an appreciable degree and it is a band aid for a bigger problem if your neck set is off. Since this is a new guitar, I would hope that the neck angle is set properly. However, that has proven not to be the case on many new guitars. Yamaha tends to make very consistent guitars with low saddles and they hold up well over time. Lower the action at the saddle, don't touch the truss rod, and things should be fine. |
#10
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Thanks guys...I've been a hobby wood worker for about 35 years and feel confident in adding the bridge groves for the strings...I know about "you can sand it off but you can't sand it back on"...
I've measured the neck and the fret board looks good. I won't mess with the truss rod at this point. Also, I'm well aware of the "Yamaha" relief and saddle height issues...I own three and this is the one showing the "issue". I'll post some pics later of the outcome...got a couple of new guitars taking up my time between work and family so this may be a Christmas break task. Thanks again, your comments are appreciated. |