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  #1  
Old 09-30-2014, 05:41 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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Default D-TAR Solstice Mute Pedal Problem

I had Switch Doctor build me one of these:

http://switchdoctorswitches.com/inde...ategory_id=104

It worked fine for a while but now it seems to only mute half the signal (I have two pickups running into the D-TAR) sometimes when I first step on it it. If I unmute it and then step on it again, hard, it almost always mutes the full signal. This seems like a clear problem with the pedal to me but I was just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue, before I have someone else build me another one, maybe for no reason.

Also, any recommendations on who to order another one from would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 09-30-2014, 05:58 AM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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Have you tried a different cable, or cleaning the contacting surfaces of your original cable? Looking at the schematic, it appears for the TRS cable it uses, the Ring is for the LED and the Tip is for the mute function. Given the LED still turns on and off, I would be suspicious of the TIP connection quality; oxidation or a broken intermittent cable conductor. Jon
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Last edited by jonfields45; 09-30-2014 at 06:35 AM.
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  #3  
Old 10-01-2014, 02:02 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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Tried a different cable, still had the problem. Also, at one point tonight, after unmuting, the entire sound changed. It was all muffled and weird. Eventually, after stepping on it a few times, I got it to come back.
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Old 10-01-2014, 05:54 AM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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If you have a multimeter, check the resistance from the footswitch cable TIP (where it is plugged into the DTAR) to the cable Sleeve as you hit the footswitch. Assuming it does not go to nearly zero ohms and open as you hit the footswitch; my next guess either the plug tip connection on the footswitch or the switch has gone bad. For the plugs, sometimes the metal contact oxidizes or bends a little out of position and you can clean and bend it back (you will need to open the case). If it is the footswitch itself, there are are plenty online sources for parts if you are up to the soldering job. If the reading on the meter is good, then the problem is likely the plug in the DTAR. The PCB mount phone plugs likely in your DTAR are generally less reliable than a hand wired Switchcraft that is likely in the footswitch. Jon
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Last edited by jonfields45; 10-01-2014 at 06:04 AM.
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  #5  
Old 10-04-2014, 09:24 PM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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So, open up the Solstice, plug in the pedal and then hold one lead on the tip and one on the sleeve?
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:43 AM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert1 View Post
So, open up the Solstice, plug in the pedal and then hold one lead on the tip and one on the sleeve?
As a first step, lets assume the Solstice is not the problem. Plug the TRS cable into the footswitch and check the resistance between the tip of the cable and its sleeve as you toggle the footswitch. It should go roughly between a few ohms and infinity (OL - open loop). If it doesn't, either the TRS jack on the footswitch, or the footswitch has gone bad. Then you need to open up the footswitch and see if the tip connection on the jack has bent a little (the most likely problem).

If the foot switch tests good, then the most likely problem is the TRS jack on the Solstice. Most likely it's tip contact has bent a little out of place and can probably be bent back. A more difficult problem, like a broken solder connection inside the Solstice to that TRS jack is best left to an experienced tech. Opening up the Solstice for this kind of fix is simple for a tech, but you may still want to have DTAR service it.

Jon
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Old 10-06-2014, 12:33 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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Alright, so I tested the pedal with the multimeter and it seemed to be working, which would imply that there's something wrong with the Solstice, but then, just for the hell of it, I plugged in a regular Marshall PED801 footswitch (which is just a TS cable) and was unable to replicate the problem. I also didn't experience any of the popping D-TAR warns you of when using a pedal other than the one they give the specs for. So, what do you think? Is it really something wrong with the Solstice and another TRS pedal would have the problem, or is there something wrong with the pedal I've got that the multimeter isn't detecting?

Okay, so i just tried plugging a TS cable into the pedal and it still has the same problem. I'm guessing this means the problem has to be with pedal, right?

Last edited by jacm81; 10-06-2014 at 12:53 AM. Reason: New Info
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  #8  
Old 10-06-2014, 05:42 AM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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Intermittent problems are hard to debug... Maybe the switch in the pedal sometimes makes a poor connection when it closes. That seems to fit the symptoms and should not be too hard to replace. If you don't need the FS LED, you could use just about any cheap latching FS with a garden variety TS guitar cable. Jon
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  #9  
Old 10-06-2014, 07:56 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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I think I'll try replacing the switch. If that doesn't work, which I guess would mean there's some problem specifically with using the TRS cable into the Solstice, could I rewire the pedal to just work like the Marshall but with a 9 volt battery in there to power the LED? By the way, thanks for all your help.
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2014, 01:23 AM
jacm81 jacm81 is offline
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I replaced the switch and the pedal works fine again. Thanks for the help.
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  #11  
Old 10-18-2014, 09:24 PM
jonfields45 jonfields45 is offline
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Nice! Jon
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2014, 07:01 PM
Hawstel Hawstel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalbert1 View Post
I replaced the switch and the pedal works fine again. Thanks for the help.
I just had this same issue kinda. My guitar started cutting in and out kinda like static, but wouldn't mute. The switch has gone bad on only 1 side, the side that grounds out the mute. When in the ON position, it went from 0 to around 500 ohms back and forth on my meter. Replaced the switch and it seems to be working find now. Tonight will tell if my gig goes well with no issues.

I built my own pedal by the way, I originally built it in a plastic case. Today since I had it apart I put it in an old aluminum case from another pedal that had gone bad. Not sure if the plastic was causing problems or not, but I used it for about a year without issue, so I don't think so.
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