#1
|
|||
|
|||
Martin XC1T Finishing (or Refinishing, sort of)
I just got a Martin XC1T guitar, and it is probably the most unfinished guitar available shipped the factory of any guitar I have ever owned. The top is just sanded unfinished wood, not even a clear/satin coat even. I might even get a splinter if I ran my hand across the top fast enough.
At any rate, I want to stain it, and I found projectguitar.com, which has some good staining tips, but I am still nervous, as I have NEVER stained a piece of wood in my life, much less a guitar. Any tips on this? Should I not do it at all? I really want to do it, because I sweat easily, and I know (from other reviews) that the top of this guitar can get "dirty" looking, since it is unfinished and soaks up everything. I REALLY don't want sweat stains on a nice Martin. Anyway, let me know if you think I can do this myself. Or another possibility would be having it stained professionally, but I do not have a lot of money. Thanks!! -C |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
why stain?
if you want a solid darker colour then that is stain, just brush it on like it says on the tin. if you want it SEALED without much colour change then go for water based lacquer. your local hardware store will have it. easy to brush and dries nicely. a quich buff with very fine wet & dry and you're good to go. 3rd option is tru-oil from a gun shop. sticky to apply but comes up with a great finish.
__________________
Quote:
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Getting a good stain finish on soft woods is a lot harder than you think. You should really practice on some similar wood before attacking the guitar. Also, applying stain once the bridge is glued on, the rosette is inlaid, and the neck is attached is going to vastly complicate getting an even finish.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Remaining questions... 1. Is that the tru-oil stuff or the regular stuff? With that in mind as what I am trying to achieve (like the finish on a 800 or 900 series Taylor), then what should I buy? Forget the staining now, I just want to protect it. 2. I don't need to tape off the rosette right? just the bridge, since I want to protect the rosette/soundhole too 3. Do I take all the strings off before I do this? I was told once that removing all the strings on a guitar can damage the neck, and never to remove more than one at a time when restringing, but I dont see how I will be able to brush under the strings. 4. Should I put the protective coat on the fretboard or just the back (neck)? 5. If I do want to stain, can I just stain the fretboard easily? 6. Lastly, will putting even just a protective coat on ruin the sound? Last edited by crobs808; 03-27-2010 at 08:31 AM. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I just talked with a professional, and he said he can stain it and put on a protective "Nitro" (gloss, not satin) coat for $250. He said that the Nitro stuff is better for acoustics because it breaths better and overtime it shrinks (not sure what that means), but he sounded pretty confident. He also recommended a gloss over satin because a satin finish would get shiny after a few years of rubbing the area with your arm, but the rest of the top would look satin still.
Anyway, I think I might go the professional route...I can't afford to buy another guitar if I mess this one up (my only guitar!) Thoughts? Last edited by crobs808; 03-27-2010 at 08:53 AM. |
#7
|
|||||||
|
|||||||
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
if you can paint your window frames at home then you are capable of doing this yourself. it isn't major surgery on the instrument. tru-oil is really easy to apply, a little on a cloth and rub it in, wipe off any excess, allow to dry (hang it up by the a string wrapped through the tuners or better still remover the tuners for a better finish on the headstock and a safer support.) repeat the process for 10 or 12 coats. DEAD easy!!!! I have pupils with special educational needs (think up your own non PC equivelent, but in Ulster Scots, it translates as "wee dafties"!!.... REALLY!!) who can apply 30 coats of danish oil (very similar) and get amazing finishes on woodwork projects. I'd say save your money. a bottle of truoil will cost around $5 here's a jumbo I've nearly finished with a dozen coats of tru oil....
__________________
Quote:
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
unfinished or just the top? I've never heard of such a thing. It doesn't sound like you have any experience with finishing. DO NOT stain the top. It will be a blotchy mess using any kind of oil stain and a tone killer as oil stains are penetrating stains that soak into the wood and kill its' resonant properties. Actually I would suggest that you don't do anything to your guitar until you get a lot more understanding of what's involved. It was suggested in another post to use True Oil. If you do decide to attempt this yourself, that may be your best option although I wouldn't recommend that type of finish for a top for tone reasons. Also, you're not going to get the gloss that you see on factory guitars using that. You mentioned talking to a professional finisher who would charge you $250. Finisihing a guitar is a specialty skill that an average cabinet finisher is not going to have - no matter how confident he may seem. I'd be skeptical until you see examples of his work. Sorry for the bad news but you could easily end up with a mess. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
He also said specifically NOT to use that tru-oil stuff, not only because it just sits on top of the wood w/o protecting it, but because he said over the years you will have to keep maintaining it and redoing the finish every 5 yrs or so to keep it looking good. His "nitro" breathable method is a high gloss, not very thick and a one-time application. (I will post before and after pictures here) I am getting him to do a stain as well, but I cannot decide what I like; based on this chart below... I like Burnt Sienna, and Victorian Cherry the best. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Oil finishes (not that I'm recommending them) also "breath" as do most finishes. Aluminum foil doesn't "breath". Paraffin wax doesn't "breath". There's nothing unusual about a finish that "breaths", so I don't know why you think it's significant. |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Martin, out of curiosity, how was the top sanded/planed before the introduction of the Tru-Oil? I ask because of all the visible waviness wherever the light is reflecting off the top, but most visible between the saddle and bottom edge of the bass side of the guitar, as well as next to the neck on the bass side.
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
I'm with Runamuck on this. Does Martin have a habit of selling unfinished guitars? Even my "elcheapo" has finish on it.
I'm shaking my head about that, especially for the price paid. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
The top is finished in hand rubbed satin. Back and side on X series are HPL and are unfinished.
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
The top of the XC1T guitar feels identical to the feeling of running your hand along sanded wood. there is absolutely ZERO shine at all to it, not even a satin finish. the HPL sides are shiny, but the top is dull in ALL lights, no matter how you angle it. Also, if you run your hand opposite the grain, you can feel the texture...if that is not unfinished wood, then I do not know what is. they carry it at Guitar stores, it is not a hard to find Martin...Guitar Center down here has one, and it is really dirty, from all the players, and only been on the wall for 6 months.
|
#15
|
|||
|
|||
After much bipolar-ness on my part, and changing my mind 1000 times, I think I am just going to save this money and put it toward my dream guitar that I have been stalking for over 5 years now...the Taylor NS74CE.
I figure in about a year or two, I might have enough saved up to go with this $800 where I could afford the Taylor. Will suck to be w/o a guitar for 2 yrs...oh well, thanks for the help. I know a lot more than I did a week ago. |