#31
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Asking here on the forum of guitars with guitars with certain nut widths gets many responses. (I've done it). Many manufacturers offer guitars with wider nuts widths. Companies are coming to realize we are not all the same size and they will lose marketing share to others if they don't "broaden" out. (Pun intended) So, they are not difficult ot find. They are not just for fingerstyle playing. They are also for people with large hands and fingers that find it more difficult to fret cleanly on a narrow neck. |
#32
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I came from classical guitars where 1 7/8 is not considered large. But I broke my left wrist in three places a few years ago and sometimes the extra reach is not my friend.
I prefer 1 3/4 size nut. I can play on anything, but that provides the most comfort. FYI, I did play on a lovely Martin 000 Koa Authentic with a 1 7/8 nut. Beautiful tone and sustain.
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Keith Martin 000-42 Marquis Taylor Classical Alvarez 12 String Gibson ES345s Fender P-Bass Gibson tenor banjo |
#33
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Somewere between scale length, neck profile, nut width and saddle spacing, there must be some "perfect" combination that's right for me, but there are just too many variables for me to figure it all out! |
#34
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It's all about ergonomics and the combined elements of the neck that allow the fingers to move in the most efficient way. Nut width alone isn't the sole deciding factor. The neck shape and/or depth. Fingerboard radius; all combine together to provide the player with the best experience for that particular player. With wider nuts, is it about the fatness of your fingers? Then in fact you may indeed need a wider nut with wider string spacing. You're a big guy and may have specific needs that most of us don't. You think Gheorghe Mureșan of the NBA at 7'7 sleeps on a standard sized bed? Big hands and standard sized fingers? You may need a chunkier, more soft-V style neck which will support a large hand better than a C neck. Me? I'm just 5'9" have slender fingers and hand but wear XL gloves because my overall hand length is long. And because of those considerations my neck of preference is a soft-V neck with a 1 11/16th" nut. I have two Taylors with C necks 1 3/4" nuts but for some things they are just more difficult to play and sometimes more fatiguing. Bottom line: We shouldn't get hung up on only one aspect of the neck which many of us do. But if your fingers are so wide that the wider nut makes sense, that is the STARTING point for your search. But the other elements of the neck should not be ignored. good luck
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Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS |
#35
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I will never buy an acoustic with a nut width of under 1.75" again.
That said, neck profile is also a big deal to me and it affects how I interact with the guitar just as much as nut width. I have been playing a LOT of electric lately. Even with much narrower and slightly different nut widths on the electrics the neck profile has a profound affect. It has made me a cleaner player on my acoustics though. I would be afraid to try a 13/16th or 7/8th neck, as i am financially unprepared to revamp my current stable.
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Roy Ibanez, Recording King, Gretsch, Martin G&L, Squier, Orange (x 2), Bugera, JBL, Soundcraft Our duo website - UPDATED 7/26/19 |
#36
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#37
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Yeah, I sold two instruments because of the nut been 1 11/16. I prefer the 1 3/4 width.
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SCGC Custom OM Mars spruce/cocobolo |
#38
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I like 1.725" nutwidths for performance ease. I play more of the 1.750" for melody composition at home.
1 11/16"s I sometimes really love when I borrow a friends guitar. I got a D18 (1970) on loan to me and it is fun to play. It's funny about different scale length and nut widths sometimes dictate what genres and technique changes. Infact one of the reasons I haven't commissioned a guitar is because I like different string geometries for all the different stuff that erupts. I play a ton of 1 11/16" strats and PRS electrics. They are so much better than 1.65" nut widths. When you play tighter string spacing you end up playing with your fingers more on an angle which is something i have done on the hundreds of band gigs back in the day. Mando players play with angled fingers. It's all good but a wider nut is great for interesting chords and that is what I usually play the last 5 plus years. |
#39
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OP - I recently took possession of a hand built local luthier OM that I specified as 1 13/16 nut. I’ll never go back to 1 11/16, heck, even my 1 3/4 is feeling a little cramped! I’m amazed at the difference a sixteenth or even an eighth can make!
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Martin D28 Custom Custom Hand Built OM (Clayton-Napier) Recording King Dirty 37 RPS-7-MBK Takamine F-451S 12 String (1977) |
#40
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Like many here I prefer 1.75" for fingerstyle playing. That and 2 1/4" minimum spacing, 2 5/16" even better. But I think ultimately we acclimate to whatever we have.
I went and saw Ed Gerhard on Saturday night at his annual Christmas concert and got to go up and check out his guitars and set up at intermission. All this guitars look like they were 1 11/16" nut width and Ed is a big guy. It doesn't seem to bother him any! |
#41
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Fretboard widths are determined by snticpated playing style.
Two important things:
1. It is less about hand size or finger length - more about the width of your fingertips. I have medium small hands and stubby fingers but I also have FFTS (fat (or flat) finger tip syndrome). I discovered in '99 that thin necks were holding back my playing style when I was offered the opportunity to play a Martin D35-s by the late great Isaac Guillory. This guitar had a 1 & 7/8" nutwidth as per the original dreadnaught design. 2. Guitar designs changed radically in the late '20s to early '30s as they became rhythm instruments. It was thought tat they would be used mainly for chunking out chords and not intricate fretting as one would do with fingerstyle or the still emerging flat-picking style. The Martin 12 fret designs (including the original dread) had either 1 &13/16" or 1 &7/8" nut widths with corresponding string spacing at the saddle. This is what I now play. You want 14 frets for playing closed chords above the 7th fret, use a thin neck, but it won't suit all for intricate stuff ... some, but not all.
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#42
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And the percentage of steel string guitars available with anything over 1 3/4" width is extremely small, so that counts as hard to find in my book. The odds of the average bloke walking into Guitar Center and finding more than a couple 1 7/8" or even 1 13/16" nuts are pretty low. The vast majority is 1 11/16 or 1 3/4". Much to my chagrin.
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#43
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I prefer 1 23/32", which is the nut width for both my EIR guitars. My mahogany Pono has a 1 3/4" nut width, which I can adjust to fairly quickly, but I definitely feel the difference. I can even handle 1 11/16", but this by far is my least favorite.
As mentioned already, it's a "fit" thing.
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