mini review: Crystalac grain filler

[fazool]

I picked up a tub of this today at Rockler:



The tub changed to black so it's hard to find what they list in their catalog.

Like most grain (or pore) fillers, it's pricey but I had fantastic results with this one.

I used it on two different types of mahogany after prepping the wood surfaces down to 600 grit then staining. It came out fantastic. One single coat was all it took, then a clean up with 1000 grit belt and its ready for a top coat.

Great stuff that works better than advertised.

[Mr Fingers]

Sounds miraculous. I hate conventional pore filler (the oil-based sludge) but use it in order to get the "right" (= traditional) color into the pores, particularly with mahogany. This product is clear -- do you notice the difference, visually, compared to the traditional dark-grainy filled mahogany look? I do lots with mahogany, which I like very much, so this stuff sounds really appealing. Would love to see pics. Thanks for the tip.

[charles Tauber]

Interesting.

I've been using a product sold in Canada as Brite-Tone and distributed by the Canadian supplier WoodEssence.com. It is made by the same manufacturer as Crystalac. (WoodEssence also sell Target products.) I've used Brite-Tone under Royalac (shellac) and Target 6000, a water-based lacquer. I've not had any compatibility problems with either.

Brite-Tone is a water-based thin paste/thick liquid that is white in color, drying clear. It is applied with a rag or trowel and troweled off. It has a working time of about 5 or so minutes, hardening in one hour, ready for sanding or an additional coat. It requires sanding prior to applying the top coat to remove any blobs or streaks from the trowel. I'm currently using it to fill Padauk - endlessly deep pores - and has taken about 4 coats/applications. The instructions say 2 or more coats are required, and 24 hours to dry before applying the top coat.

It doesn't smell "great", but isn't as bad as many other finishing products. It scrapes okay, but gums-up sandpaper in short order.

Having used traditional oil-based paste fillers for many years, I'm still undecided if I like this product. (Usually, a paste filler will fill pores in one application, rather than 3 or more. The additional coats take time and effort.)

I do like that I don't have to color the Brite-Tone and that in imparts no color to the wood, unlike colored paste fillers that change the appearance of the wood somewhat.

Looking at the Crystalac website, they state not to use Crystalac with shellac. I don't know if it and Brite-Tone are the same product or not. I wrote to Becker Labs, who makes both products, to inquire.

How has your experience with Crystalac differed from mine with Brite-Tone?

[Quickstep192]

I’m wondering if either of you have ever tried Crystalac Brite Tone Instrument Finish?

[redir]

I'm always looking for a good grain filler. I started off using oil paste then tried some water based once then egg whites, pumice, and then full circle back to oil based. I think I might have to try epoxy next and perhaps I will even give this a try, thanks for the review.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Quickstep192

I’m wondering if either of you have ever tried Crystalac Brite Tone Instrument Finish?

More than a decade ago, I used whatever Crystalac was called at the time. It was awful as were all of the other waterborne finishes at that time. I haven't tried it more recently. (I have tried Target 6000 and 7000: 6000 was quite good, 7000 was likely old and no longer viable, and has since been discontinued anyway.)

I have tried BriteTone grain filler, as a stated earlier. I'm currently using it on a Paduak guitar (back, sides and neck.) It's okay. I like some things about it, others less so.

[Truckjohn]

Mmmmmmmmm... Me likey.

I have not used grain fillers on my guitars because I don't like the way they typically "muddy" the grain... They make everything look like a painted wall... I want to see the wood and the grain of the wood....

Is it compatible with oil based wiping finishes? No weird reactions, yellowing, or delamination if you wipe a varnish or wiping poly over top?

[charles Tauber]

This, just in...

I wrote to Crystalac regarding Brite Tone products distributed in Canada and manufactured by Crystalac. Here is the response I received:

Wood Essence relabels our products for the Canadian market and the formulation is exactly the same. You will not have any problems using the Grain Filler OVER shellac as long as the shellac is dry before applying the grain filler.

We do not recommend applying shellac over grain filler due to the alcohol and solvents in the shellac can soften the grain filler causing white spots in your finish. If you have been using it without problems your skill level is better than most. So carry on. Nice thin coats with each coat completely dry before the next.

Take a look at the Brite Tone Top Coat. Super high solids, builds really fast. Brush, spray, or wipe right out of the container. No bug juice odor either.

In short, fazool and I are using/describing the same product.

[LouieAtienza]

I've had good success with epoxy in the past. I've been using a UV cure polyester which I think works great, but with some caveats - smells like Bondo, can't apply anywhere near direct sunlight. But it cures in 3 minutes under the sun, and even faster with a UV bulb, and clear.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

What UV cure have you been using?

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker

What UV cure have you been using?

Solarez polyester grain sealer.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Thanks.

I tried that but I could never get it to fully cure, it always remained sticky, even in hot sun. Maybe a bad batch or something...

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker

Thanks.

I tried that but I could never get it to fully cure, it always remained sticky, even in hot sun. Maybe a bad batch or something...

Hmmmm, not sure... I had success with a couple projects using sun, and one using UV light. I would put it one and let it flow out, about 60-90 minutes. Then I take it out to the sun for about 15-30 seconds or so, and bring it back in the shade, and let it sit for a few minutes, then bring it back out to finish curing.

[saltytri]

Originally Posted by Quickstep192

I’m wondering if either of you have ever tried Crystalac Brite Tone Instrument Finish?

Yes. It sprays very nicely with conversion HVLP and, as advertised, dries hard, buffs well and doesn't have a blue cast. If only it were less expensive! EM6000 has very similar properties and I can get it from a local paint store at less than half the cost of Brite Tone.

I just pulled out a large test panel I did several months ago: Claro walnut sprayed with Brite Tone then fully sanded and buffed. The panel of about 2/3rds of a sq. ft. was divided into three sections that were pore filled with CA, Crystalac filler and LMII waterbased paste filler. The CA section looks the best - very natural. The LMII section looks OK but on close examination the pores look obviously filled. The Crystalac section comes in second to the CA section because there is a hint of artificial whiteness in the deepest, widest pores. I'd say that claro is one of the more extreme test cases because the pores are rather large and the whiteness may not be at all apparent in most woods. In fairness, "whiteness"may be a bit of an exaggeration. Perhaps, "not quite transparent" would be a better description.

[LouieAtienza]

I've been testing something different lately - KBS Diamond Finish. Comes in can and aerosol form. So far I love what I'm seeing. Dries hard and thin, buffs out to an amazing gloss, and clear. Has enough solids that I used it to fill pores and sealcoat a thinline Tele I'm building. After a couple test panels, I think I like it more than other stuff I've been using.

This is the third coat. 2 coats as a pore filler the first day, then next day sanded back to wood, and one sealer coat (laid down a coat, waited a few minutes, then put a quick hot coat on top.) Actually dries dust free in about 10 minutes or so. Cures from the moisture in the air. I already cut down this coat, and there are only a few low spots that I may need to drop-fill before I shoot the top coats.

[IMG]20180310_102413 by Louie Atienza, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]20180310_102513 by Louie Atienza, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]20180310_102419 by Louie Atienza, on Flickr[/IMG]