#16
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As far as nuts are concerned, it is accepted throughout the luthiery fraternity that the correct approach is a drop of glue on the front of the nut. White glue or superglue ...it doesn't matter. |
#17
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That's completely wrong and really bad advice to be giving. CA (super/crazy) glue is a preferred adhesive for crack repairs and drop filling minor dings. Some will use a tiny drop to hold the nut - I prefer no glue or elmers white glue only.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#18
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Superglue or similar are used on guitars in a lot of situations, specially finish repair. I personally prefer CA type glue for a nut because it cures faster than white or carpenter glue, and the nut will be removed easily when needed. As already said, a *small* drop is the thing. And (I repeat...) actually when making a new nut for a guitar, I don't even pull out the superglue, the strings are keeping the nut in place just fine. |
#19
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While CA glue is certainly not a good choice for installing nuts and saddles it does have its uses for sealing cracks making repairs to the finish.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#20
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A nonsensical practice that often requires Luthier's and repair people unnecessary effort to replace or adjust.
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I've yet to meet any competent luthier or repair person who recommends a drop in saddle be glued. |
#21
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Things might be different in Europe but I tend to agree with Charles on this one. Gluing a saddle into the slot would make getting part of a basic setup rather difficult. From what I'm told, a single drop of glue should be sufficient to hold a nut in place and a saddle should fit so that it's snug in the slot and dressed so that there is complete contact with the base of the slot.
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(2006) Larrivee OM-03R, (2009) Martin D-16GT, (1998) Fender Am Std Ash Stratocaster, (2013) McKnight McUke, (1989) Kramer Striker ST600, a couple of DIY builds (2013, 2023) |
#22
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And this may be a trivial point ultimately, but why does a nut need to be glued in place other than for convenience. I am happy to adjust the position of nut or saddle when changing strings before I bring the strings up to pitch. I guess if one is a frequent performer and is pressed for time between sets or whatever.... The downside to gluing nuts./saddles in place are that when you knock them out for replacement, they will take some of the wood with them necessitating a nontrivial repair. I don't believe the violin family bridges are ever glued, I don't know about the nut. It just seems unnecessary and has potential damaging consequences. hans
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1971 Papazian (swiss spruce/braz RW) 1987 Lowden L32p (sitka/ind RW) 1992 Froggy Bottom F (19th cent. german spruce/koa) 2000 Froggy Bottom H12c (adir/ind RW) 2016 Froggy Bottom K mod (adir/madrose; my son's) 2010 Voyage-Air VAOM-2C http://www.soundclick.com/hanstunes (recorded on Froggy H12c) |
#23
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I've only encountered it a couple times and it aggravated me to no end. Saddle replacement is so common when setting up intonation for new string gauge, adjusting tone, diagnosing buzzing and other issues. No one should be putting glue in there. It makes a proper fitting saddle very hard to remove.
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#24
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Most of my acoustics don't even have the nut glued in place.
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Wayne J-45 song of the day archive https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis..._Zmxz51NAwG1UJ My music https://soundcloud.com/waynedeats76 https://www.facebook.com/waynedeatsmusic My guitars Gibson, Martin, Blueridge, Alvarez, Takamine |
#25
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You don't really need to glue in the nut -I wouldn't
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--------------------------------- Wood things with Strings ! |
#26
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Through saddles should always be glued (with hide glue, as aforesaid) . Last edited by murrmac123; 02-05-2017 at 06:15 PM. |
#27
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Do you have an on-line reference to that, or should I write to him for his opinion?
Any other's you know of that endorse the practice of gluing in drop-in saddles? Quote:
When replacement has been necessary, I've been ripping them out and never glued in the replacement. I've yet to have one come back due to splitting of the slot. I guess I've been doing it wrong these many years. That, then, begs the question: if the saddles must be glued in to maintain structural integrity, it appears to be a bad design from both a structural point of view and maintenance/replacement perspective. The obvious question is then, why would a manufacture do that? Obvious answer: it is easier to manufacture a through slot than a blind one. Reduce manufacturing cost; increase maintenance/replacement cost. Am I missing something, sort of like tapered bridge pins in cylindrical holes? I don't mean to sound confrontational, but this practice makes little sense to me: I'm trying to understand why someone would do this. |
#28
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Last edited by murrmac123; 02-05-2017 at 07:57 PM. |
#29
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In reading that thread, it is clear that some are in favor of gluing through saddles and some are in favour of gluing drop-in saddles. Others in the same thread said they are not. Experts on both sides who have opposing opinions with little "hard" evidence to support either. |
#30
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