Looking for a good Binding Jig

redwood1169 · #1 02-24-2014, 07:24 AM

Ive been using a wooden guide mounted on my router and it works ok. The fact that I only build a couple guitars per year I should just be happy with it, but i'm not. More than likely it is operator error. I would like to find one that moves up and down on a mount and the guitar spins in a carriage. It seems like this jig would take some of the guess work out of this for me. I bought a couple drawer slides and intended on building my own but Im undecided on that. Anyone have one they are looking to get rid of or have some good plans for building one? Some guys like to build all of their tools, but my time is limited so I hate to spend my available guitar time building jigs. The stewmac and LMII ones seem nice but a bit pricey.

THanks!

Brandon

Ben-Had · #2 02-24-2014, 07:59 AM

You can build one like this and it's pretty easy. The most critical part is the type of shoe/rise you are going to use and how you construct it. It keeps the bit parallel to the guitar side to cut the channel.

Do you plan to use a rabbet bit with bearings or are you going to use a straight down cut spiral bit with a micro depth adjustment? The weight of the router is counter balanced with a spring attached on the back.

I've changed my setup slightly and now use a Ridgid trim router and down cut spiral bit.

redwood1169 · #3 02-24-2014, 04:53 PM

Thanks! Could you take some more pics of the jig from different angles and email them to me if its easier than posting here? All I have ever used is a straight bit but at his point I don't have a preference. I would think ordering a good set from stewmac with the various bearings would work? What did you use for the shoe/rise part of yours? Cant really see it from the pic but Ive seen some made like a very small donut.

THanks,

Brandon

charles Tauber · #4 02-24-2014, 04:57 PM

A little different than what you are asking about, but this works:

http://www.canadianluthiersupply.com...ts/binding-jig

If you are so inclined, you could make your own version of it.

redwood1169 · #5 02-25-2014, 07:02 AM

$400 for that one! I think I saw something similar to this at the martin factory but I doubt I could build it and have it actually work accurately.

Troles · #6 03-07-2014, 11:39 PM

Redwood, did you make a decision? I am also looking to make something to make routing bindings easier. If Benhad emailed you picks I would love to see them or email me

Howard Klepper · #7 03-08-2014, 02:18 AM

How do you like that DeWalt router, Charles?

dkwvt · #8 03-08-2014, 05:55 AM

I built this jig several years ago to accomodate two or three personal "feel" work habits. It is probably more involved than what you are describing but it allows for the functionality you are looking for. If you are interested I will be happy to break it down, otherwise just my crazy shop tool show and tell... ;-)

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charles Tauber · #9 03-08-2014, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

How do you like that DeWalt router, Charles?

Hi Howard. It isn't mine. The photo is from the manufacturer's website, Canadianluthiersupply.com. I'm certain that Josh House, who runs the company, would be happy to tell you about it. He's very approachable and helpful and has tested a number or routers.

LouieAtienza · #10 03-08-2014, 02:09 PM

The DeWalt is a great router (I believe its a DP611 or something like that). I had one on a mini CNC I built a while back. Great power-to size ratio (1-1/4HP as opposed to the typical 1HP most laminate trimmers have), and metal housing; even went so far as to mill aluminum with it without a hiccup. I recently purchased a Makita router with similar specs and performs just as well...

TEK · #11 03-08-2014, 10:41 PM

Brandon,
I built a router tower like Tim B's with some scrap wood I had laying around. Spent about $15 on some good drawer sliders for it to move up and down. For the router base I cut a base from some 1/4" plexi glass and for the important thing, for the doughnut on the router base I used one of those sliders you use under the legs on furniture to slide on carpet. Trimmed the base of the slider and glued it to the base I made. After the glue is dry, put your bit in the router and slowly lower it to cut the hole in the slider.
Get a bit with bearings from Stew mac. and you are set. I couldn't believe how much better it made things. I could cut my channels with my eyes closed now. Soooo much easier than trying to hold everything straight with a hand held. The time spent building it is worth it.

Travis

redwood1169 · #12 03-09-2014, 06:40 AM

Thanks for all the great info! I bought a couple strong drawer sliders and be looking for a furniture mover thingamajig. I just received a nice cutter and a set of bearings from LMI that will help a ton.

Travis, what diameter was the furniture slider you used?

THanks,

Brandon

TEK · #13 03-09-2014, 02:36 PM

Brandon,
I used a 2 3/8" or 60 mm

Hope this helps
Travis

Troles · #14 03-20-2014, 10:00 PM

So I think the style like in Ben-had's photo is what I want to do. I get the drawer slides concept and how it lets router move up and down yet keep it trait hit and perpendicular to work table. The cradle holds guitar with 4 adjustable height clamps? but do you adjust guitar so sides are perfectly perpendicular to work surface also, or so top is level(can a radius top ever all be level)?
Second, I kinda get the furniture mover disk on router, otherwise a router base would protrude a few inches onto guitar top which is domed, thus changing height of router cutting channel. But, do you need a 2.5 inch dome piece to do this or could you just use a small 1/4 inch base that rides just on the edge of the top of guitar and isn't affected by the doming? I think this jig is worth building, just want to understand it all first. Anyone know of any video showing it in use or explaining. Thanks

Jim.S · #15 03-20-2014, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troles

The cradle holds guitar with 4 adjustable height clamps?

Yep that's it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troles

but do you adjust guitar so sides are perfectly perpendicular to work surface also, or so top is level(can a radius top ever all be level)?

Yep again, you adjust so the side are perpendicular, the top should end up closeish to level and obviously when you do the back it will be no where near level because of the way the sides thin towards the heal.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troles

Second, I kinda get the furniture mover disk on router, otherwise a router base would protrude a few inches onto guitar top which is domed, thus changing height of router cutting channel. But, do you need a 2.5 inch dome piece to do this or could you just use a small 1/4 inch base that rides just on the edge of the top of guitar and isn't affected by the doming?

I use a much smaller doughnut that I made from wood on a lathe (you could turn one up on a drill press if you have no lathe) Mine has about 1/8 inch flat section on the doughnut to ride on and it tapers away from there, all up it is about 1 and 1/4 inch diameter which is the size of the hole in my router base.

Jim