Replacing standard wooden bridge with Tailpiece

[Mandobart]

Seems like this would make the break angle over the saddle way less, almost flat. I don't know if the result would drive the top much. Most of my 20 + instruments are archtop with a floating bridge and tailpiece. It almost seems like using a tailpiece with a fixed bridge would be the worst of both worlds. If you use a resonator tailpiece like in the picture you only need one screw to mount it, but I wouldn't expect the hole to line up with the existing endpin/strap button. If the intonation with the existing bridge is good, then using a tailpiece vs bridge pins should not change intonation so long as the bridge position doesn't change.

[wade63]

Bridge reglue would be under $100, just saying. Best solution.

[Truckjohn]

As has been said - it's been done a lot... Works well enough. And it's cheap. You don't see this done nearly as often as you used to..

If its the type of guitar where you won't have an issue with a tailpiece - then a couple extra screw holes won't ruin the deal...

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by Truckjohn

As has been said - it's been done a lot... Works well enough. And it's cheap. You don't see this done nearly as often as you used to..

If its the type of guitar where you won't have an issue with a tailpiece - then a couple extra screw holes won't ruin the deal...

Yeah maybe just get a cheap tailpiece with 3x screw holes, and screw it onto the bottom side of the body, and string through it and over the existing bridge and saddle, and it is not going to change anything in the guitar, apart from making 3x small screw holes on the body, and will be interesting experiment for how it will perform.

The new tailpiece goes for about 10 uk pounds from amazon.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by wade63

Bridge reglue would be under $100, just saying. Best solution.

I am planning to reglue it by myself. I watched a few youtube vids on the job and seem straightforward work, but what I need to get for the job is the soundhole / bridge clamps.

[wade63]

Originally Posted by Theleman

I am planning to reglue it by myself. I watched a few youtube vids on the job and seem straightforward work, but what I need to get for the job is the soundhole / bridge clamps.

sounds good if you plan to dabble in repair but you'll need 3 clamps (or that's how many I use) and they're about $25 a piece, with glue that puts you up near the hundred mark.

[fazool]

Originally Posted by Theleman

I am planning to reglue it by myself. I watched a few youtube vids on the job and seem straightforward work, but what I need to get for the job is the soundhole / bridge clamps.

You can make a jib that contacts in three spots and use one clamp. A single clamp way more force than needed so the trick is clamping down in three spots - I made a wood jig and capped the three pillars with cork.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by wade63

sounds good if you plan to dabble in repair but you'll need 3 clamps (or that's how many I use) and they're about $25 a piece, with glue that puts you up near the hundred mark.

I am going try with a couple of old clamps for woodwork from my shed - they may work or not, I need to to try them and see. If not possible to use them, then I think there are C-clamps of 8 inch long for about a tenner and will get a couple of them.

Does it have to be special glue? I have a bottle of plain wood glue still plenty left in the shed from last year for other wood work.

[Theleman]

Originally Posted by fazool

You can make a jib that contacts in three spots and use one clamp. A single clamp way more force than needed so the trick is clamping down in three spots - I made a wood jig and capped the three pillars with cork.

Great idea. Thank you for sharing.

[ruby50]

Any clamp with the long reach will work - if you don't have them, then Harbor Freight has a 5" throat clamp for $5.99 that works for most guitars - get 3.

Your pin bridge and saddle drive the guitar by rotating back and forth towards the neck and back again. The tailpiece bridge drives the guitar by moving up and down, a less efficient movement for production of sound. In my experience, this reduces the volume of the guitar a bit. But it has been done a million times - just look at the 12 strings played in the '20's- you could get them either way.

[wade63]

Originally Posted by Theleman

I am going try with a couple of old clamps for woodwork from my shed - they may work or not, I need to to try them and see. If not possible to use them, then I think there are C-clamps of 8 inch long for about a tenner and will get a couple of them.

Does it have to be special glue? I have a bottle of plain wood glue still plenty left in the shed from last year for other wood work.

I use titebond ll and have never had a bridge come off, stronger than wood glue but I'm sure many bridges have been applied with a decent wood glue. Key is clean, bare wood, and flat surface.

[LouieAtienza]

Originally Posted by Theleman

I am going try with a couple of old clamps for woodwork from my shed - they may work or not, I need to to try them and see. If not possible to use them, then I think there are C-clamps of 8 inch long for about a tenner and will get a couple of them.

Does it have to be special glue? I have a bottle of plain wood glue still plenty left in the shed from last year for other wood work.

I would not use year-old glue. You can get TiteBond (red label) in small containers inexpensively.

Also, I have a padded block of wood - a little longer than the width of the guitar - that I slip under the C clamp by the soundhole, to support the weight of the clamp(s). They are kind of heavy, and you don't want to introduce any torqueing forces on the top while you're gluing the bridge on.

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by ruby50

Your pin bridge and saddle drive the guitar by rotating back and forth towards the neck and back again. The tailpiece bridge drives the guitar by moving up and down, a less efficient movement for production of sound. In my experience, this reduces the volume of the guitar a bit. But it has been done a million times - just look at the 12 strings played in the '20's- you could get them either way.

The up and down motion is actually the primary sound producer, the rocking of the bridge is less efficient.

Originally Posted by Theleman

Does it have to be special glue? I have a bottle of plain wood glue still plenty left in the shed from last year for other wood work.

Wood glue subjected to temps less than 40°F is probably no good, and a year old is also pushing it. Hot Hide Glue is the best choice, with Original Titebond a close second.

Originally Posted by wade63

I use titebond ll and have never had a bridge come off, stronger than wood glue but I'm sure many bridges have been applied with a decent wood glue. Key is clean, bare wood, and flat surface.

Titebond II is subject to cold creep and is not good for any structural joints in a guitar. Original Titebond or the newer Titebond Extend are preferred.

Good fit and good wood to wood contact is more important than the glue.

[Theleman]

Great info.

I wonder if this glue would be good for the bridge regluing.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TITEBOND-L...-/291366845504

[Truckjohn]

Use Titebond I or Elmer's wood glue. Conventional hot hide glue would also be fine.

Skip the liquid hide glue...