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  #16  
Old 03-15-2018, 12:20 PM
JackB1 JackB1 is offline
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Originally Posted by mz-s View Post
Sure if need be. I've never had this much trouble overcoming the friction of the sandpaper though, even when sanding the side of a saddle. Maybe something like wearing a rubber glove would give you enough grip?
thanks. Another good idea! The saddle is bone and its very smooth so its hard to get a grip!
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2018, 12:22 PM
mz-s mz-s is offline
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Originally Posted by JackB1 View Post
thanks. Another good idea! The saddle is bone and its very smooth so its hard to get a grip!
I know what you mean. I bought a bone blank from Stewmac a couple months ago. First time using "quality" bone. It is much harder and smoother than any other saddle, bone or otherwise, I've used prior.
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  #18  
Old 03-18-2018, 02:05 PM
Sands Sands is offline
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Default Taylor 114ce saddle replacement

Lots of great ideas. I read somewhere that someone took the stewmac nut and saddle holder and replaced the screws with longer ones so it could hold it flat. I’ve done a few by hand and had trouble getting one perfectly flat despite a flat surface with sandpaper glued down. Doesn’t seem to be a problem for some, which is encouraging. I was using a bench holding as shown. It was slippery as heck and it was rounding the sides. Glass or granite may have helped. I recently watched a video by Crimson guitars where he glued thin strips of wood to a flat board in a V shape so a nut or saddle would slide up to wedge in and secure - any size or shape. Then sand with block. I think I’ll try that next time.
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  #19  
Old 03-18-2018, 02:21 PM
Earl49 Earl49 is offline
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The low-tech way would be to use a piece of duct tape on one side of the saddle and then work back and forth, taking all the material off of one side. The side being sanded should be the one closer to the bridge pins - if you do anything to change string length / compensation, err on the side of flat rather than sharp (shorter). You are only taking off a couple of thousandths, but why take chances?

And go slow. No more than 6-8 strokes at a time on 200-320 grit paper with light pressure, then remove the tape and try the fit again. It is really, really, REALLY easy to overdo this (ask me how I know).
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  #20  
Old 03-18-2018, 04:58 PM
AcousticWoody AcousticWoody is offline
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I just did this last night. I roughed the length and end shapes with a file and adjusted the compensation a little to match.

I bought a piece of glass tile from Home Depot for $2 and, using it as a flat surface, sanded the height to match the one I took out.

I then held the saddle down on its side on the glass on one end while sanding lightly with my right hand to fit the slot. (Mine was too snug as well) I used a 2"x2" piece of 220 sandpaper 15 strokes and flipped it around and did the other end. Even pressure and slow wins the race. Try it for fit after every sanding cycle.

2 hours later, I had a perfect new bone saddle (while watching TV). Your mileage may vary.
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2018, 07:37 AM
JackB1 JackB1 is offline
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Originally Posted by AcousticWoody View Post
I just did this last night. I roughed the length and end shapes with a file and adjusted the compensation a little to match.

I bought a piece of glass tile from Home Depot for $2 and, using it as a flat surface, sanded the height to match the one I took out.

I then held the saddle down on its side on the glass on one end while sanding lightly with my right hand to fit the slot. (Mine was too snug as well) I used a 2"x2" piece of 220 sandpaper 15 strokes and flipped it around and did the other end. Even pressure and slow wins the race. Try it for fit after every sanding cycle.

2 hours later, I had a perfect new bone saddle (while watching TV). Your mileage may vary.
How did you hold the saddle down on the glass on its side and sand it at the same time?
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