#46
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Rather than have a new nut and saddle cut I believe the easiest and least costly option is to have the luthier restore the old nut and saddle - which he said he would do. And with changing the strings should be back to normal. Will update when reverse is complete. |
#47
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#48
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This was a missed opportunity for the OP to work on the guitar and try to set it up himself. Cheap guitars like this are best used for experimenting and developing repair and maintenance skills. I use the Luthier for my expensive guitars and things l can't do myself.
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#49
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#50
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"buzzing on chord changes" seems as if it would be a technique issue rather than a setup issue.
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#51
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Hi Frank- when I took the guitar to the store the guy noticed that the washer between the tuner and the headstock on the E string (low) was loose and rattling. It sounded like it was the frets. We think that will make a difference when it is tightened up. No idea how that happened.
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#52
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The TW28 seems to have gotten some pretty favorable reviews over all. |
#53
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So I met the luthier today and changed out the saddle. He said the new nut was only slightly lower than the original. He said what really stood out for him was that the action of the original set up was higher on the treble side than the bass. And so that he had not only lowered the action overall he had particularly lowered it on the treble side. He said that he thought that was more normal than the way the guitar was set up originally. I thought that was interesting and could well have caused the major change that I noticed. Michael Sanden is the luthier who designed the series (Evolution) and works with Tanglewood. He probably had a reason for setting it up this way. When I strum now it rings out and I like the vibrancy and mix of warmth and twang. So it seems to be "back". I feel it wasn't necessarily the bone v the nubone, although I don't feel now the nubone is an inferior option if it suits the guitar. I could test that by having a none saddle made in same shape as the original - but no way am I going to do that now :-). I did keep the new bone nut because I wouldn't mind slightly lower action at that end. The luthier said that the overall action is medium to medium-high. He said I might experience soreness in my left hand but I am not worried about that now after the experience I had and might even change out the nut next time I change strings just to see (action and sound). The really good thing is that I have realized I really like my guitar and am happy to be back with the old sound. I plan to enjoy it for a while now and just play. Thanks for all the feedback and input.
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#54
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#55
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#56
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Hi there.
Glad you got your guitar tone back! I have found I liked the tone of a bone over plastic / Tusq saddle in about half the guitars I have owned and made the change to. Others, including several Furch-built guitars, a Breedlove and a Tanglewood sounded too thin and 'hi-fi' with bone and going back to Nu-bone or Tusq. One guitar, an LL6 sounded better with its original plastic compared to either bone or Tusq - TO MY EAR. There are guitars where it makes little difference and some where it makes a massive difference. I am convinced of that. i think these Tanglewoods TW28 series are pretty good guitars in both spruce and cedar tops. I am pleased for you that you are enjoying it again. Pete |
#57
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Hi Pete- thanks for your commemts and sorry for late reply as I missed it when you wrote. "Thin and hifi" is how it sounded. I've been undecided about whether the big change in action or the bone saddle/nut was more, less or equally to blame. Your experience does suggest the bone saddle impacted this Tanglewood tw28. I do like the guitar - what is your experience with them? Cheers
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