#16
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I've only taken off a handful of nuts before, so by no means am I an expert on this sort of thing. But for me, it's always been a super light tap to remove. In fact, it's always been the first super light exploratory test tap that I think is too little force, that took the nut off. I think nuts are usually not glued in the traditional meaning of "glued-in", but more like barely tacked on.
And I have used both white and CA glue to install on wood guitars, and always use minimal amount of glue, just enough to tack it in place... we're talking about a drop. On this of660 was my first carbon fiber guitar, so I used a tiny drop of CA glue and spread it over 2 sections, thinking it'd be enough. But the next time that I took the neck off, the nut popped off, so I applied a tiny bit more the second time, and it seems to be holding. But it's just enough to keep it in place, I'd guess that I could remove it with just my fingers, if I wanted to. In any case, I too would encourage minimal amount of any glue, just enough to keep it in place, not really gluing in place permanently. And I also agree that you'd not want too much silicone, as it's a squishy material that may dampen the vibration? |
#17
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I put a zero-glide on my (wooden, sorry!) recording king. I'm a big fan of zero-frets, maybe because I had one on my first guitar as a kid and didn't even know it was unusual. I build cigar box guitars for a hobby, usually fretless, and I've started putting zero frets on them too. It just makes a lot of sense.
Now you've got me thinking I might put one on my GX.....
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#18
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I ordered a zero fret today to give it a try on my OF660. You got me wondering. They don't cost much and like you said,you can always go back to the old nut. I'll try in place with just string tension before I try any type of adhesive.
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Couple of CF guitars, Couple of wood guitars Bunch of other stuff. |
#19
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Awesome... watch the videos on the install. I first sanded down the bottom and tested fret wires on the neck, without cutting the fret wire or sanded the sides of the nuts off, so letting it overhang the sides. No need to glue when testing, just string it up, and if you like the feel and sound, then you can do the rest of the work and glue. If you don’t like it, just glue the original nut back Just need some patience when sanding the bottom of the nut, and keep checking. If you sand too much off, the fret won’t sit correctly.
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#20
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A recon I be getting one or two as well... see what you started?!?
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YUP.... Emerald: X-20, Center hole X-10 (Maple) and X-7 (redwood), Spalted Chen Chen X 10 level 3, CA: Early OX and Cargo McPherson: Early Kevin Michael Proto Some wood things by Epi, Harmony, Takamine, Good Time, PRS, Slick, Gypsy Music, keyboards, wind controllers.. etc |
#21
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Speaking of things falling off. I tried the second tall saddle that came with the guitar and noticed a difference in tone. Not for the better. When I went to go back to the original saddle I noticed the tall saddle was quite a bit thinner and a very sloppy fit in the slot. fell right out when turned upside down. Maybe under tension it canted toward the neck and did not have good contact on the bottom? I think I will pick up another at my local music shop and fit a new one a bit more snug like the one that came installed.
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Couple of CF guitars, Couple of wood guitars Bunch of other stuff. |
#22
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Haha awesome. It’s not expensive, so hopefully it’s worth the effort for you guys. They make a bunch of sizes, I’ve got them in 2 other guitars that are 1 11/16”.
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#23
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Quote:
The first one is snug and doesn’t fall out without string tension. |
#24
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Darn it Crab...You have now become an enabler for us poor addicted folks!!! I'm going to have to try these on a couple of mine, (but not my Emerald), just to experiment with...drats...
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Current Acoustics: Emerald X-20 OS Opus Wechter Pathmaker Wechter Nashville Tuned Wechter Dobro Washburn Nylon Electric: Line 6 Variax Keyboards: Korg SV-1 88 key reverse PA: QSC K8 x 2 Amps: Custom Peavey Studio Pro (Superman) Fishman Loudbox Mini |
#25
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Quote:
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#26
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Crab;
This type of contribution makes the forum both interesting and informing. Thank you. |
#27
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Thanks, it’s why I felt compelled to contribute my discovery, since I’ve learned and benefited so much from this forum on products, mods, upgrades, guitar reviews etc. However, I think it’s only useful if other people try and do agree and confirm this is true... otherwise it’s just one wacko’s opinion so thanks for the early adaptors willing to try and spend the time, based just on my opinion.
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#28
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I had one off those once.... turns out someone had it before me. So I guess it was used.
__________________
YUP.... Emerald: X-20, Center hole X-10 (Maple) and X-7 (redwood), Spalted Chen Chen X 10 level 3, CA: Early OX and Cargo McPherson: Early Kevin Michael Proto Some wood things by Epi, Harmony, Takamine, Good Time, PRS, Slick, Gypsy Music, keyboards, wind controllers.. etc |
#29
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Lol, not sure if you had an wacko once, or an opinion once, but good thing it was pre ownedd.
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#30
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I don't play my '74 Guild D50 much anymore due to its feeling too stiff. I may try this to see if it would make a difference.
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1967 Aria Classical 1974 Guild D50 2009 Kenny Hill New World Player Classical 2009 Hoffman SJ 2011 Hoffman SJ 12 https://paulashley.weebly.com/ https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulAshley https://www.reverbnation.com/paulashley |