Where to get a perfectly flat surface for sanding the bottom of a saddle?

[charles Tauber]

Technique is more important than the absolute flatness of the surface. For example, a dead-flat surface can still produce a rounded bottom if poor technique is used to rub the saddle over the surface.

For years, I've used a block of plywood with sandpaper attached to it. The results so produced are sufficient.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Technique is more important than the absolute flatness of the surface. For example, a dead-flat surface can still produce a rounded bottom if poor technique is used to rub the saddle over the surface.

For years, I've used a block of plywood with sandpaper attached to it. The results so produced are sufficient.

I was keeping out of this discussion but am inspired to state agreement with your points on technique and tools, Charles. I am pretty much exact same as you on this subject but for the difference that my block is usually MDF rather than plywood.

I quite simply use sandpaper held down onto the work area with a square block of wood that I use to make certain the bottom is 90 degrees to the sides. Very simple but highly effective. If technique is poor, however, this won't yield successful results.

Speaking of technique versus tools, I sometimes show students and visitors to my shop that a flat plane can be used to cut a convex or even concave edge depending upon how it is used. More important is to learn the tools and their margin of error, and what affects their margin of error.

I do not believe glass vs granite vs wood will introduce any significant differences in accuracy of final result, and hence one shouldn't over-think this small point.

It is important not to seek the perfect tool, but to move closer to perfection with one's use of chosen basic tools.

[bnjp]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

I do not believe glass vs granite vs wood will introduce any significant differences in accuracy of final result, and hence one shouldn't over-think this small point.

I agree. I used to use sandpaper taped to the bench top until I was sanding a saddle once that was too short to hold and move (without sanding through my fingernail! I've done it..). So I laid the saddle on it's side and used my leveling beam to sand it from the side. That's how I came up with the jig I use (on previous page). I find I get more consistency by holding the piece still and moving the sanding block. It works every time...it's only slightly more difficult to create slight forward lean (for a saddle loose in the slot) since mine will make it perfectly square.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by bnjp

That's how I came up with the jig I use (on previous page). I find I get more consistency by holding the piece still and moving the sanding block. It works every time...it's only slightly more difficult to create slight forward lean (for a saddle loose in the slot) since mine will make it perfectly square.

It is a nice jig, by the way. Similar to the concept of a shooting board for planes.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

It is a nice jig, by the way. Similar to the concept of a shooting board for planes.

It is. I'll give it a try. Thanks, bnjp.