When you level a layer of Finish

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by mirwa

Sanded from 600 grit to 1500 grit, ready to start buffing

So when you did this stage... this is BEFORE the 3 ish week cure period or after?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Mr Fingers]

Sorry -- can't tell anything from that picture.cIt looks like there are spots, lines, and streaks everywhere -- and what's the like vertical line near the heel? IT certainly doesn't look ready for buffing, but I'm guessing that the picture doesn't properly show what the surface is really like. Lots of people are trying CA as pore-fill, but I haven't read enough positive posts to even consider it myself. The last thing I want it to be doing a ton of sanding between pore filling and finishing. I also have better control over the color of the finish by using conventional pore filler, so even though I hate the stuff and that part of the process, I don't see a positive reason to try CA. I'm not sure which material is more obnoxious -- pore filler or CA. They're both gawdawful. Good luck with your finish.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

It is normal to let it cure before final sanding. While the finish cures, it also shrinks, so if you sand level before, it can reveal pore indents and glue lines.

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by Halcyon/Tinker

It is normal to let it cure before final sanding. While the finish cures, it also shrinks, so if you sand level before, it can reveal pore indents and glue lines.

Thanks ... hadn't considered shrinkage (Seinfeld reference)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[mirwa]

Yes it was fully cured before any sanding was started.

Steve

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by Mr Fingers

IT certainly doesn't look ready for buffing.

The first photo on the left.... is first attack with sanding, the line you referenced is merely dust build up from using a sanding pad, the second photo on the right is after progressively sanding up in grit sizes until a finish wet sand that was carried out in 1500 grit.

If you think the finish on the right is not ready for buffing yet, then I wonder how many guitars have you buffed

Feel free to back your comments up with photos of your work.

Steve

[SnowManSnow]

I think he was just talking about the photo on the right


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[mirwa]

http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Buff.html

Page 2 shows close up of this actual guitar buffed

You can also if you do not have access to a buffer achieve a very good gloss using micromesh, here is another link showing a guitar finish (prs) achieved using micro mesh

http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Protect_Signatures.html

Steve

[SnowManSnow]

Originally Posted by mirwa

http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Buff.html

Page 2 shows close up of this actual guitar buffed

You can also if you do not have access to a buffer achieve a very good gloss using micromesh, here is another link showing a guitar finish (prs) achieved using micro mesh

http://www.mirwa.com.au/HTS_Protect_Signatures.html

Steve

I do not have access to a buffer... I do have one of those foam drill pads from stewmac....
should I not even attempt it w that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[mirwa]

Definetly go for it, nothing wrong with a foam pad.

You are simply buffing, buffing is still an abrasive, it is just sanding with a finer compound.

Buffing can be done by hand, by machine or variations of in-between.

I never buff signatures, ever..

Steve

[Quickstep192]

Steve,

You mentioned letting the finish cool after buffing before handling.

Does heat play a role in polishing? and if so, how would hand polishing differ from machine polishing?

[mirwa]

Yes, absolutely heat is an issue in machine buffing.

If you buff nitro heavily using a machine, you can actually create a wave front, that is, you can see a raised area of nitro in the shape of a wave being pushed across the surface.

More contact and more pressure happens with machine buffing in comparison to hand buffing, so the extra friction creates the heat.

When ever I machine buff regardless of the finish material, I always allows the finish to cool down, after buffing it is warm to touch, it scratches very easily even with cleaning cloths.

Steve

[Halcyon/Tinker]

As well, depending on your fill, heat can cause it to swell and expand above the surface, and then shrink back as it cools, revealing hints of pores. That's my theory anyway. So you mustn't let the finish get hot.

[Quickstep192]

Thanks guys.

I get that building up too much heat could cause problems, but is it necessary to build up some heat to bring the finish to gloss? If I'm buffing only by hand it seems that I couldn't create much if any heat, so could I get the same results?

[mirwa]

Heat is a by product of friction, it is not needed to create a gloss finish.

Standard machine buffer running at 700rpm 14 inch in diameter 2 in wide, can do more buffing in one minute than a person can do by hand in one hr

Steve.