Economics, health and custom guitars.

[Tim McKnight]

I'm with Steve as I would suggest Spanish cedar body and neck. I've got several sets and it's the lightest weight (hard) wood I have. Next lightest would be Black Limba. It's right there too. Pair either with LS or even some vintage 1959 Spruce that is even lighter than LS. A double top is even lighter yet and should also be considered. Gotoh open back tuners with wood buttons. Lots can be done under the hood to shave weight too by laminating neck and tail blocks with Cedro and spruce. We could also remove weight from braces by machining hollow wood trusses.

I would not suggest a bevel but I'm probably odd man out, but it would actually add weight and decrease vibrating top plate surface area. A Manzer wedge is all you need and may not even need that? I've build dreads that are 2" deep that have great bass response. Lots of unique things we could engineer for you to shave overall weight.

[nootis]

At the recent Santa Barbara show, Tony Yamamoto brought a couple of guitars built from Paulownia wood (apparently a seldom used Asian species). They were super light weight, and IMHO, Tony builds very "comfortable" guitars that sound great.

[nacluth]

Spanish Cedar is a great known wood. We have also built out of wood (because we have lots of it) called Kelobra or Guanacaste. It really is featherweight yet pretty stable. Another beautiful choice for weight concern.

[BBWW]

We'll talk. This is good info.

Originally Posted by Tim McKnight

I'm with Steve as I would suggest Spanish cedar body and neck. I've got several sets and it's the lightest weight (hard) wood I have. Next lightest would be Black Limba. It's right there too. Pair either with LS or even some vintage 1959 Spruce that is even lighter than LS. A double top is even lighter yet and should also be considered. Gotoh open back tuners with wood buttons. Lots can be done under the hood to shave weight too by laminating neck and tail blocks with Cedro and spruce. We could also remove weight from braces by machining hollow wood trusses.

I would not suggest a bevel but I'm probably odd man out, but it would actually add weight and decrease vibrating top plate surface area. A Manzer wedge is all you need and may not even need that? I've build dreads that are 2" deep that have great bass response. Lots of unique things we could engineer for you to shave overall weight.

[BBWW]

This is why I love this board! I just want to keep playing.

Thanks for the input so far.

Originally Posted by nacluth

Spanish Cedar is a great known wood. We have also built out of wood (because we have lots of it) called Kelobra or Guanacaste. It really is featherweight yet pretty stable. Another beautiful choice for weight concern.

[SJ VanSandt]

I played a Waterloo WL-K the other day that was super light weight. I think it's the lack of an adjustable truss rod more than anything. The woods were run-of-the-mill Sitka/mahogany, I believe. I wonder if Collings foregoes the bolt-on neck on these too? Just thought I'd throw that out there - you aren't going to get a bevel or wedge on those babies. Something else you might consider is a 12 fret with a cut-away. I like the idea of the little Wilborn - I think it sounds great for the size - but I'm sure any of these guys - Steve or Tim or Stuart or anybody you like - could build you something that helps.

I've been thinking about you a lot lately, Jay, knowing you are in all sorts of pain. I hope you can take some comfort in the fact that people you've never even met are wishing you well. Get well - be well, my friend.

[rogthefrog]

My guitars tend to be big and heavy, but you're welcome to try my Yamamoto with Manzer wedge and bevels anytime.

I also have a small Kalamazoo KG-14 in all mahogany that's very light.

Just let me know if you want to arrange a playdate.

Tony's Paulownia guitars are indeed very light. And I am working on a Spanish cedar neck blank that's super light too.

A paulownia or mahogany wedge parlor with Spanish cedar neck would be super light.

[nootis]

Originally Posted by rogthefrog

Just let me know if you want to arrange a playdate.

rogthefrog,

My son is now 13 and prefers not to call it a playdate any longer.

We're grown ups here. Let's just call it a show and tell consultation.

[BBWW]

Originally Posted by rogthefrog

My guitars tend to be big and heavy, but you're welcome to try my Yamamoto with Manzer wedge and bevels anytime.

I also have a small Kalamazoo KG-14 in all mahogany that's very light.

Just let me know if you want to arrange a playdate.

Tony's Paulownia guitars are indeed very light. And I am working on a Spanish cedar neck blank that's super light too.

A paulownia or mahogany wedge parlor with Spanish cedar neck would be super light.

I have some great guitars, with a wedges and some with a Laskin Style Bevel. Some are not overly heavy. I'm really comfortable with them. I can see where a Ryan Style Bevel would add weight. My Mcknight I gifted to my best friend who has engineered all of my CD's and never charged me a dime. The Brazilian Rosewood was a tad heavy, Tim is good at keeping weight low so he and I will talk. I have a great Harvey Leach, Mahogany with a bevel and the Laskin Bevel, it is a great guitar too, not too heavy and no cutaway, I'll talk to Harv too.

I appreciate builder suggestions and I'm blessed to know many on this board. It was the materials that I looking more for and techniques to keep weight down.

The softer woods don't bother me even for a stage guitar, I don't fear dings, but rarely is that an issue for me. I few even my expensive guitars as tools and I and in the past never let cost determine if I gigged with a guitar.

[iim7V7IM7]

Jay, have you considered trying any of these products first to determine if size or weight is the issue or it is moving ones arms itself while standing? My point is weight savings and some ergonomic adjustments may or may not do it depending on the root cause(s) of your condition(s).

http://products.k-m.de/us/Stands-and...er-stand-black

http://www.mbracestand.com/

http://graciestands.com/

[rogthefrog]

Cumpiano has made wedge guitars, if memory serves.

[guitarchie]

hello,

my lightest guitar is a prototype from Adrian Lucas (http://www.lucasguitars.co.uk/) with only 1400 g and an unbelievable bassresponse. Perhaps you may ask him to do anything for you.

all the best

guitarchie

[Andy Howell]

I think the key thing here is as much the standing position as is the weight of the guitar. Most luthier guitars — and many high end instruments — are pretty light.

I've had various problems over the years. For a long time I switched from a jumbo to an OM. Now I play a small jumbo with a Manzer wedge. It took me a while to understand the most comfortable position too play the wedge guitar sitting down.

Standing and playing is a whole new ball game. I've found the Manzer wedge is just as effective when playing standard. Recently, while my guitar was having some maintenance I gigged a few times with my old J40 and that certainly was a trial.

However, posture is just as important as when standing. Years ago when complaining to my dealer about problems with my hands he just asked whether I was playing standing a lot. Thinking about comfort and stress is important.

Many musicians and actors are devotees of the Alexander Technique. This is not an alternative therapy but a way of understanding the strains and stresses of your body and it will help you adopt postures that work for you and help you minimise stress. You may well find a teacher near you.

Performing can be great fun but also stressful both mentally and physically. Be prepared to experiment until you are comfortable or until you can cope with a reduced level of discomfort.

I am never pain free really. Sometimes I have lower back pain which I can deal with using simple yoga-type exercises AND thinking about standing posture. I also have problems with a shoulder which I know are made worse by a stressed and hunched up position when playing (either standing or sitting). I can keep yah shoulder going through careful thought and by some simple stretching exercises. But I reckon at some point in the future I will be going in Larry's direction!

[jmagill]

I'm with Andy Howell (and others) on the sitting/standing debate. Even when gigging, I play sitting down as much as possible, unless it's a wedding gig where I'm featured as part of the service. One of my regular gigs is 5 sets – 30 min. on, 30 min. off. I can't imagine standing all that time.

I sit in an armless, straight-back chair with my left foot on a guitar footstool, the guitar's waist on my left thigh and the lower bout between my knees. This allows me to sit erect and reach everything without a strap pulling on my shoulders. I also tend to play more cleanly this way, an added plus.

Unless you're in a band situation where the other members are standing, I urge you to consider sitting.

[CoolerKing]

Since I'm spending someone else's imagined money:


00-12 fret cutaway with Manzer wedge
Double-sided Tree sides with Tree back
Your choice top, but I love the redwood idea
shorter scale (thinking of Larry's recent Michaud)
?stealth tuners with a light peghead (see photo)

Might be giving up some tone for the compromises but I bet it would be very easy to play and easy on the eyes