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  #16  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:31 AM
ruby50 ruby50 is offline
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I have always used mineral oil (lemon oil without the lemon) 2X a year. Recently talking to a fairly famous guitar repair guy, he said they use Howard's in their shop. I bought a bottle and it does a very nice job. Bot much different than the mineral oil, but even a small bottle is lifetime investment, so now I have it.

Remember that wood does not need to be fed - conditioning the fretboard does not make it last longer, but does make it look "better".

Ed
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:35 AM
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I use Petros fretboard oil..........maybe once or twice a year. One little bottle will last a lifetime!
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:41 AM
dgt178 dgt178 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdog49 View Post
A "shout out" to Brucebubs.
Got me some F-One and it works great.
Thanks!
hmmmm........I suggested F-ONE first.....and no kudos.....Merry Christmas to you, too.......
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:54 AM
rokdog49 rokdog49 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgt178 View Post
hmmmm........I suggested F-ONE first.....and no kudos.....Merry Christmas to you, too.......
Sorry...
Kudos
Thanks to you too!
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2017, 09:59 AM
Swamp Yankee Swamp Yankee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RayBarker View Post
On an acoustic guitar is linseed oil OK to use or do you suggest something else?
Boiled linseed oil is recommended by many, including Bob Taylor, as it's a "drying oil" which forms a finish of sorts and helps seal the wood. He suggests using it sparingly, no more than once a year for the first three years of a guitar's life, then not again until ten years later.

Raw linseed oil is a different animal altogether - and will take a lot longer to dry.

Another poster pointed out fire hazards resulting from steel wool and 9 volt batteries, but I'm surprised nobody has referred to the fire hazards posed by tossing a rag with boiled linseed oil on it into a garbage can. Given the right conditions, such a rag can cause spontaneous combustion.
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  #21  
Old 12-17-2017, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdog49 View Post
Sorry...
Kudos
Thanks to you too!
...LOL.....no hard feelings......I've been using F-ONE for years.....great product....as others have stated.....a little goes a long way...lasts like forever.....season's greetings.....
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee1404 View Post
Since I found out about Gorgomyte, I don't use liquid oils, snake or otherwise, on my finger boards. One treatment a year is plenty, impossible to 'overdose' the wood or the fret-slots. I don't delude myself that I'm 'feeding' the FB, it's just cosmetic to make it look and feel 'nice'. Great product.

http://http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Cleaners_and_Lubricants/Gorgomyte_Fretboard_Conditioning_Cloth.html?pref_c urrency=D
I like Gorgomyte as well. It's a quick way to clean the frets and fingerboard and it leaves the frets shining.
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:38 PM
ChalkLitIScream ChalkLitIScream is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swamp Yankee View Post
Boiled linseed oil is recommended by many, including Bob Taylor, as it's a "drying oil" which forms a finish of sorts and helps seal the wood. He suggests using it sparingly, no more than once a year for the first three years of a guitar's life, then not again until ten years later.

Raw linseed oil is a different animal altogether - and will take a lot longer to dry.

Another poster pointed out fire hazards resulting from steel wool and 9 volt batteries, but I'm surprised nobody has referred to the fire hazards posed by tossing a rag with boiled linseed oil on it into a garbage can. Given the right conditions, such a rag can cause spontaneous combustion.
OP, I too have heard there is a big difference between boiled and non boiled linseed oil. I recall Bob Taylor's words and also by a guy on youtube called Randy Shartiger. That guy swears by boiled linseed oil.
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:56 PM
vindibona1 vindibona1 is offline
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Linseed oil? That's controversial. Some think it's fine. Some think that it can cause build-up of it's own. I think it's ok for occasional oiling. Me? I've taken to using BORE OIL, the same stuff that fine oboes, clarinets, wooden piccolos and woodwind instruments use to keep the wood from drying out, elongating their lives. A little bottle for around $7 will be a lifetime supply. While it is rare that I put any oil on my fingerboards, it happens that I'll apply oil about once a year when I just want a little more depth in the wood and then don't have to worry at all about drying out.
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  #25  
Old 12-17-2017, 02:13 PM
Brucebubs Brucebubs is offline
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Music Nomad 'F-One' on another bridge I treated.

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  #26  
Old 12-17-2017, 02:16 PM
Brucebubs Brucebubs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowesthand View Post
Another question on the subject, if I may. Whatever you chose to use, is it ok on rosewood as well as ebony?

PS...Brucebubs, your pic is worth a 1000 words on the bridge.
This 'F-One' information is straight from the Music Nomad site (I underlined rosewood and ebony) ;

F-ONE gives wood its life back. F-ONE is formulated using a complex mixture of the finest ultra refined tree and seed oils to clean, condition & protect your fretboard/fingerboard. 100% free of any lemon oil extracts, waxes, petroleum distillates, silicone, and water. We chose not to use any lemon oil because it contains d-limonene, which is a strong solvent that is used to remove paint and glue. In addition, we believe the high acidity levels of lemon oil can dry out the fretboard over time and require more frequent fretboard care. F-ONE leaves your fretboard looking new, playing great and feeling smooth, never sticky or tacky. Our revolutionary formula penetrates & conditions the wood to dry fast and give it a new look for months. We use 100% naturally produced oils and is safe on all unfinished rosewood, ebony and maple fretboards. F-ONE oil is preferred by some of the most respected repair shops in the world.
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  #27  
Old 12-17-2017, 06:23 PM
jawjatek jawjatek is offline
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I've used Fret Doctor bore oil for years. Still have most of a bottle! I use it about twice a year. I heard not to use furniture lemon oil, as it can dry out the wood.
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  #28  
Old 12-21-2017, 01:34 PM
spuytenduyvil spuytenduyvil is offline
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Default Raw linseed oil. For fretboard

I bought my first guitar, a 1975 Guild D35, and their instruction mentioned to use a very small amount of raw linseed oil on the FB. I oil the FB once a year or so using my fingers, little 0000 steel wool them buff. Fretboard looks great and still using the same raw lindseed oil I bought back then. I use it on my few guitars with no problem, no smell, no gummy feeling, it works fine for me over all these years. Again a few drops go a long way.
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2017, 05:02 PM
menhir menhir is offline
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I have it on good authority that Santa is going to put a bottle of F-One in my stocking this Christmas.
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2017, 07:55 PM
BT55 BT55 is offline
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Check with the guitars manufacturer. I’m sure that the treatment should be based on the wood that the fretboard is made from. For example Taylor does not recommend using anything except 0000 Steel wool on their fretboards.
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