#16
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Quote:
I don't have a winder and don't bother with the capo. I tend to take up the slack pulling the string up with my fingers at the nut and push the string back down so it definitely winds downwards on the peg. I don't really feel the need to use a winder doing this, it's quick enough |
#17
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I do it like this, demonstrated at Frets.com. Restringing Clinic, Steel String Guitar
I prefer four wraps for the wound strings, and six for the steels. To me, this seems to help better hold the strings in tune, possibly (maybe) from the increased break angle over the nut, as the string will exit from the tuner post at the bottom of the post, instead of from the middle. I've also had zero issues with string breakage since starting to use this method, somewhere around 1991. It was shown to me by a very fine tech, music shop owner, and long time player in Columbus, GA. Some people seem to think that this makes string removal difficult or slower, but honestly, I can't figure it. Loosen the string, cut it, unwind slightly, and pull through. Put on the new string, stretch, tune and play. ... JT
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"Yield to temptation. It may not pass your way again." - Robert A. Heinlein |
#18
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I run the string through the hole then one wrap over and all of the rest of the wraps under, this 'locks' the string to the post.
Been doing this way for 36 years now..... Most of my guitars I can get 1 wrap over and 3 wraps under on the wounds, the guitar pictured has very short posts so I just get 2 under .....the string still locks to the post nicely..... DSC_9986 by bobbyjeepyj, on Flickr
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D'ya like my red dot.... |
#19
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Ok, the Martin method looks good, but....why not clip the sting ends before starting the wind? He says they are locked in so they are not going to slip out. Seems like that would be a neater way to do it. He didn't even discuss that. Anybody know why?
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John ------------------------- Alvarez Yairi DY 57 1978 Yamaha FG-110 Yamaha FG-160 Yamaha FG-180 Yamaha FG-800 Fender partscaster Fender MIM Jazz Bass Five old dead basses awaiting resuscitation |
#20
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For the E and A strings I found you have to keep a good pull on them as you start to wind otherwise due to the thickness they try to slip whilst winding. Keeping that extra length lets you get a better kink around the string to lock it. I just tend to do all the strings the same but the E and A seem to require a little more positive pulling whilst starting to wind.
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#21
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Ah, makes sense Smith. Thanks.
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John ------------------------- Alvarez Yairi DY 57 1978 Yamaha FG-110 Yamaha FG-160 Yamaha FG-180 Yamaha FG-800 Fender partscaster Fender MIM Jazz Bass Five old dead basses awaiting resuscitation |
#22
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I go to my local store, John's Music, buy a new set of strings. I then wait while they check out my guitar, clean it, then put the new strings on for me at no charge, great service, I love the store!
(I CAN change them and did for decades, but LOVE this new way.) |
#23
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One string at a time, ie leave the old ones on and in tune.
Attach, at bridge, cut about 1 1/2" longer than post, ie to the next post up. Bend a right angle in the free end, about 5/16"long. Insert angled piece into post hole, wrap one turn over the top of the post hole. Wind the rest on under the post hole, so that you have about one turn over the hole, the rest under. Tune to pitch (wind, yank, wind) using the old strings as a reference, and constantly retuning the new strings as I go.
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Tony D http://www.soundclick.com/bands/defa...?bandID=784456 http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/ |
#24
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Another one for the Taylor Method. Works fine for me.
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#25
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Hey, if you've managed to make yourself bleed and ruin the saddle all in one outing, you've done a fine job. Carry on!
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"You can get help from teachers, but you are going to have to learn a lot by yourself, sitting alone in a room." --Dr. Seuss |
#26
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Well I toned the slapstick down a few hundred per cent in my post so that I wouldn't come across as stupid as the silverfish watching me play know I am.
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