#16
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I am not sure that I get why it was so difficult to work with Cocobolo, is it that its to hard to steam and bend or is it like some woods that have a memory and tend to want to bend back into its original shape and would you need a special compound then to help fill the pores of the wood prior to whatever coating you are going to use, I have worked with some woods and have never yet tried to work with this one, but I certainly would be curious,someone I think mentioned that the dust can be , I think they said toxic, is this the same thing that made Tims (McKnight ) friend in the shop get sick.Ship
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#17
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Quote:
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#18
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Thanks, I seem to think so too
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#19
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There are two main reasons why working with Cocobolo is difficult. Cocobolo is actually quite affordable but the increased difficulty in the build process is the reason for the (usually significant) upcharge.
The first is that it is oily. I know folks who have used Titebond with good success but I certainly wouldn't trust a normal PVA glue. Instead, I use an epoxy specifically meant for gluing resinous hardwoods. It is very expensive and not as convenient to use as regular glue. The second and primary reason is that the dust is a sensitizing agent. If you work with it long enough, you WILL develop a more serious reaction to it - like getting exposed to poison ivy over and over. Eventually, just the smallest touch will set you off. Folks with lung conditions or bad allergies react strongly to it. I don't have any adverse reactions to it but I make certain to clean up the dust very well. So when I am working with Cocobolo I spend a heck of a lot more time cleaning up the dust. More time, more money. As far as the wood cracking - I believe a lot of this hype is surrounding a bunch of Taylor (?) guitars that had problems. I heard that the issue was to improper conditioning of the wood prior to use. From my limited experience with building with Cocobolo - it appears very stable. -- Simon Fay |
#20
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Quote:
Trevor did say he ALWAYS uses a mask when sawing to keep out the dust...
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#21
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Trevor's sent me some more progress pics. I think it's coming along really nicely. The different woods are really coming together. Just a bit longer and it will be done!!
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#22
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Just wondering what people's thoughts were on the sapwood on the headstock. Do you think it's better to have the sap go all the way to the top and forgo the logo or have it go 2/3 up and then include a logo?
I've seen it done both ways. I'm not sure what's best...
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#23
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Personally, I like the sapwood running all the way (having a similar thing done on the OM build I currently have in progress with Joel Stehr) and would then look for the logo to be done in a material that would look good when it spans both the wood and sap. Paua might be a good choice for the "k", or maybe Bloodwood might be better to tie it in with the neck, rossette and binding/purfling?
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Andrew White Production: Cybelle 112 Rosewood/Sitka Andrew White Production: Cybele 312C Crossover Rosewood/Red Cedar Clark: A-Wedge Koa/Snkr Rdwd 12-str Clark: A-Wedge Monkeypod/Snkr Rdwd Cornerstone: Zion All Koa Cornerstone: Tenor Ukulele Prototype #2 All Koa Fay: OM Mac Eb/Englemann Stehr: Aud. Braz/Snkr Rdwd 8-str Plaid Coyote's gone home to play |
#24
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I like the idea of no logo, just showing off the beauty of the wood.
-Mike |
#25
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I love to see the wood in all its glory. I'd opt out of the headstock logo but probably still only have the sapwood go ~halfway to the top.
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♪ http://www.ScottAllyn.com ♫ (ɔısnɯ ʎɯ) 1981 Laughlin RL ♫ Koa B/S ♪ Cedar Top 2008 McKnight Highlander ♫ Wenge B/S ♪ Lutz/Cedar Double Top |
#26
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One vote for each, and one for "mid", keep them coming. If I were to do the logo I'd do the logo maybe in bloodwood or Koa for some contrast. Logo on the heel cap maybe?
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#27
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Got some more updates
The guitar is coming along, the body finished, fretboard inlayed, and headstock pretty much done. I guess it will be a few more weeks. The Cocobolo is turning out pretty nice I think, and the combo of woods really is working and the Bearclaw really adds to it... please share in my excitement!!
Finished Body, bearclaw really showing: Sideview with soundport: I think the back is pretty stunning! The neck and inlay are almost there: Headstock with bloodwood purfling. Coming out pretty nice...
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1998 Taylor 855 12-String EIR 2008 Kronbauer Mini-Jumbo Cocobolo with Sap/Bear-Claw Sitka |
#28
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Stunning. Absolutely gorgeous!
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#29
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Very beautiful. Clearly is a guitar you'll want to pick up and play!
RR
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Paragon RW/Macassar Ebony Baritone Rainsong S OM1100-N2 Woolson LS RW/30s African mahogany LG 12 Baranik LS RW/"tree" mahogany OO Baranik Blue Spruce/"tree" mahogany OM Boswell RW/koa OO Baranik Retreux Parlour Adi/Pumaquiro Baranik Blue Spruce/Coco Meridian "Geo" Baranik Blue Spruce/Kingwood OO Woolson T13 RW/Walnut SIG |
#30
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She is a real beauty. I especially love the sapwood on the back and headplate. Keep those pics coming!
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Andrew White Production: Cybelle 112 Rosewood/Sitka Andrew White Production: Cybele 312C Crossover Rosewood/Red Cedar Clark: A-Wedge Koa/Snkr Rdwd 12-str Clark: A-Wedge Monkeypod/Snkr Rdwd Cornerstone: Zion All Koa Cornerstone: Tenor Ukulele Prototype #2 All Koa Fay: OM Mac Eb/Englemann Stehr: Aud. Braz/Snkr Rdwd 8-str Plaid Coyote's gone home to play |