#16
|
|||
|
|||
Good problems to have. I find German to be a little darker/warmer. Since you stated that you want different, and you already have German; you might consider Italian? I'm finding a lot of what you describe in my first Italian topped guitar. I've played/owned most other spruces and It certainly could be voicing (I agree that the luthier is paramount) but none-the-less...
Have you picked a luthier? Enjoy the ride. Chris PS - Have you experienced Honduran Rosewood?
__________________
The Electrics check The Acoustics Tom Doerr - Trinity. Flamed Maple under Swiss Tom Doerr - M/D. Braz under Red |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I just wonder whether you might to go a very different way as your current guitars are all in a certain mode - we met at a Martin Simpson school!
I eventually went to a UK luthier who I knew made instruments with a different sound and feel and wasn't disappointed. With a Sobell, a Ryan, a Fischerr and a Kostal you've got many of the NA bases covered!
__________________
------ AJ Lucas Pavilion Sweep fan fret Santa Cruz OM/E (European Pre War) Martin J40 |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Believe me, I am not trying to be argumentative here, I just don't think there is any true German Spruce, I think it has become more of a nomenclature situation than a true species. ???? Sorry for the small thread highjack. |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quite honestly, there is so much overlap between the commonly used spruce species in terms of their density and their stiffness that the discussion of provenance and terroir is somewhat silly. Factories which buy hundreds or thousands of top sets work off averages. The table below illustrates average differences between three commonly used spruce species.
Name------------------Avg. Dried Weight--------Janka Hardness-------Elastic Modulus--- Engelmann Spruce-------385 kg/m3-----------------1740 N-----------------9.44 GPa------ Norway Spruce-----------405 kg/m3-----------------1680 N-----------------9.70 GPa------ Sitka Spruce--------------425 kg/m3-----------------2270 N-----------------11.03 GPa---- These average differences are misleading because they don't described the variability within each species. Below, I have graphically illustrated some ranges on these physical properties provided by luthier Alan Carruth recently in another post on this site. Average Dried Weight Range: 300------------350-----------400-----------450-----------500------------550---------Kg/m3 ---------------|<--------------------------Norway Spruce-------------------->| -------------------------------------|<-------Sitka Spruce------>| -----------------|<----------Engelmann Spruce----------->| Elastic Modulus Range: 9------10------11------12------13------14------15------16------17------18------19-----GPa |<----------------------------------Norway Spruce---------------------------------->| --------------------------|<---------------------Sitka Spruce--------------->| ------------------|<-----------Engelmann Spruce-------------->| What I hope that you can see that there is more intra-species variability is larger than the inter-species differences. So in the end it really comes down more to the individual set than whether its Bosnian, Carpathian German, Italian etc. Let your luthier pick your top. Luthiers don't work on averages but based on the properties of an individual set. It is likely that there are excellent reasons for recommending a particular set vs. a particular species or terroir. My $.02
__________________
A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… Last edited by iim7V7IM7; 08-01-2015 at 09:38 AM. Reason: fixed iPadisms |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Interviewer: " What camera do you use, David (Bailey)?" David Bailey: "Give me a camera and I'll use it" |
#21
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
While I agree with your main point regarding individual variation and the ability of the luthier to work with each individual piece to bring out its best, ie. stiffer braces on a less stiff top or visa versa (simplified of course), my point was there is no German Spruce and I think that is important for people to know. German Spruce is now a generalized term used for European Spruce which includes them all and a lot from Yugoslavia. While this is all OK, people should understand what they are getting or actually not getting in this case. You are not buying Spruce grown or harvested in Germany. I have not heard anyone longing for Yugoslavian Spruce for their guitar although it is obviously just fine as it is being sold under the name of German Spruce. If the buyer doesn't care about that or at least buys knowing what they are getting, that is just fine by me. I do disagree when you infer that provenance ie. terroir does not matter. I think if you know where the tree came from, this is relevant. I have read where Italian Spruce from the northern regions in the Alps, due to its shorter growing seasons will be different tonally (denser) than more southern Italian Spruce just for example. In my own build, Steve purchased the wood from the luthier who actually cut the darn tree down himself so he could probably bring us not only to the slope he harvested it from, but to the exact stump. To me, that is really cool for one thing, but also could potentially be very important tonally. I also know EXACTLY what I paid for. For me, maybe not for anyone else, that is very important. I know that my wood is what it is named for and sold as. Now let the luthier work his magic utilizing as quality of piece of wood as I can give him. I think anyone would agree, that although Bruce Sexuaer can build a guitar from Catalpa, he would do better with BRW and Italian Spruce. If that is an arguable point, than what the heck are we doing paying so much for custom guitars built from what is perceived as the best woods available. IMHO, Tom |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
I have sets from a trusted source that were cut in Bavaria (that's in Germany). And a few old tops that were bought in Germany in the early 1950's. So German spruce can be had. But so what? Growing conditions matter. Political borders do not.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I did not mean to high jack this thread...sorry. |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The provenance of whether a top came from an Italian alpen tree felled and processed by Stefano Rivolta, the Swiss or Julian Alps by Martin Guhl, the Carpathian Mountains by John Preston's partners in Romania, the Canadian Rockies by Bruce Harvie or by John Griffin from the Appalachians is way down my list of what matters beyond the subjective romantic associations. I personally care more that the top set: 1) Was processed properly and is well cut on quarter; 2) Is stable and has been seasoned a long time in the luthier's wood locker; 3) Possesses the properties (e.g. density, stiffness, tap tone etc.) that the luthier wants for the particular guitar being commissioned on their bench. Unless the tree was actually felled by the luthier, the actual provenance of the wood is reliant on the integrity individuals who fell and process wood like some that I mentioned. I have two guitars that are "German" spruce which they may or may not be. I do know that they came from a trustworthy source and most importantly were individually selected by a master luthier to use in a project. Which country they actually come from matters very little to me.
__________________
A bunch of nice archtops, flattops, a gypsy & nylon strings… |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
I recommend that you consider having a guitar built with a short-range multiscale (aka "fanned-fret") configuration- say, a scale range from 25" (high E) to 25.5" or 25.75" (low E).
The progressively longer scales on the lower strings will give you good tension for midrange and bass response, while the shorter scales moving up to the treble strings could very likely help bring out the sweetness and overtones in the trebles. I've made a good number of these shorter-range multiscale guitars, and have found that they consistently respond this way. Shorter scales favor the trebles, while the longer scales add some extra umph to the bass. And the mids, well, they are in the middle. So, an intelligently constructed multiscale may just be the optimum configuration for your tonal criteria. Also, if you've never played a multiscale guitar, you may be very surprised at how easy and ergonomic they are (provided the scale spread is not too extreme). The fan of the frets follows the natural arc of your left hand up and down the fingerboard, and you really don't need to alter anything in your playing technique. I prefer a 1/2" or 3/4" scale spread on my multiscales, and sometimes I have to point out to a person who is test-driving one of these that it has a multiscale fingerboard. Otherwise, they might not realize there was anything different going on... Anyway, this is one more factor you may want to consider...
__________________
Edwinson |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Seems pronouncement of the extinction of the German Woodcutter is a might premature.
Why is this not working, oh well, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vXepLO7qyQ |
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I have not read this thread, I was summoned by my name, but Cuban Mahogany and MadRose are nearly at opposite ends of a spectrum. Nevertheless, who builds is a much greater variable. |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Kevin Ryan Signature Nightingale - European Spruce, Brazilian Rosewood Bourgeois Custom OM - Adirondack, Bubinga Stefan Sobell Martin Simpson Signature - German Spruce, Malaysian Blackwood Steve Fischer 12/15 - German Spruce, Brazilian Rosewood |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
Well, I think this thread has now gone off in its own direction so we may as well leave it there. Thank you all for your positive suggestions.
__________________
Kevin Ryan Signature Nightingale - European Spruce, Brazilian Rosewood Bourgeois Custom OM - Adirondack, Bubinga Stefan Sobell Martin Simpson Signature - German Spruce, Malaysian Blackwood Steve Fischer 12/15 - German Spruce, Brazilian Rosewood |