#1
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Hatcher Penelope Model in the "Tree"
I'm very excited with this start on my second guitar using "The Tree". I received such a great and supportive response on the forum with my Greta "Tree" build which I am very grateful for. This time I'm working with my Penelope model and I'll be going an entirely different direction with the colors and design concept.
Here are the general specs: Penelope steel string 12 fret model "Tree" quilted mahogany back and sides Alpine Italian Spruce top Cocobolo binding, pillow headstock, and other trim Black Ebony bridge and fingerboard Short scale 24.75" Gotoh gold 510 minis with Cocobolo custom buttons Bone nut and saddle Nut 1 3/4" Saddle string space 2 1/4" Red Sunburst top finish Voiced purely for fingerstyle Here are some pictures to get us started: You may have noticed on the spec list I said "Voiced purely for Fingerstyle". That starts with the selection of Western Red Cedar braces for the very active back this guitar will have. Hope I have your attention! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#2
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Hatcher Penelope Model in the "Tree"
Mark........ I'm already sensing a problem with this thread and build...........
My uncontrollable urge to check the AGF constantly in hopes of updates and new pictures! I do believe it is time to admit that I'm a Hatcher-addict! Thanks Mark! ;-) |
#3
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oh my this is going to be awesome
Mark, i realised people have used mahogany and spruce for back braces. and here's your unique build with cedar as well. Could I seek your thoughts on how the choice brace material for the back will contribute to the guitar?
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Collings OM2H Adi / Braz Doerr Legacy Swiss / Braz Franklin OM German / Braz Franklin OM Carpathian / Braz Goodall GC Italian / Honduran Goodall GC Italian / Braz Goodall CJC Italian / Braz Goodall CJC Italian / Afr. Blackwood McPherson 5.0 Full Koa McPherson 5.0XP Adi / Braz Martin D-28GE Adi / Braz |
#4
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Quote:
Well the first step is to admit you have a problem. Thanks fountainhead! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#5
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Quote:
I use a standard starting profile on my back braces. They all start out at basically the same dimensions. I use their weight and deflection under weight to select and pair them. Because I'm shooting for a fingerstyle only guitar here I'm building extremely lightly. WRC is very light compared to other woods mentioned. It is also very stiff. So one way to build very lightly but stay within my standard starting dimensions is to use a lighter material as long as I'm not paying too heavy a price for loss of stiffness which isn't the case with cedar. My goal in using the WRC is to have a very active back which will extend particularly the bass response and give the overall guitar a very lively feel. Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#6
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Quote:
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My YouTube Page: http://www.youtube.com/user/ukejon 2014 Pono N30 DC EIR/Spruce crossover 2009 Pono koa parlor (NAMM prototype) 2018 Maton EBG808TEC 2014 Hatcher Greta 13 fret cutaway in EIR/cedar 2017 Hatcher Josie fan fret mahogany 1973 Sigma GCR7 (OM model) rosewood and spruce 2014 Rainsong OM1000N2 ....and about 5 really nice tenor ukuleles at any given moment |
#7
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Thanks Mark, for that detailed answer it makes it very clear now. I'm just full of respect with the level of thought and purposeful execution you put into every guitar, starting from the materials. I'll be watching this thread closely, and you take some of the very best photographs too! - Zeke
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Collings OM2H Adi / Braz Doerr Legacy Swiss / Braz Franklin OM German / Braz Franklin OM Carpathian / Braz Goodall GC Italian / Honduran Goodall GC Italian / Braz Goodall CJC Italian / Braz Goodall CJC Italian / Afr. Blackwood McPherson 5.0 Full Koa McPherson 5.0XP Adi / Braz Martin D-28GE Adi / Braz |
#8
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Rosette
Here are some pictures of the back being joined and the rosette coming together.
We're going with a very creamy Alpine Italian Spruce for the top. This is a very good sounding light weight top and it is also a very clean looking top which will be a good base for the red sunburst to come: Here are the tiles and ebony border pieces. They are spalted Tamarind, "Tree" mahogany, and Cocobolo. I cut in some sapwood on a few of the Cocobolo tiles. You can see them. They look like candy corns: I'm bringing a lot of red into this rosette which will show more with a finish on it. This is again to go with the red sunburst. The Greta "Tree" from my previous build thread was accented with Brazilian Rosewood. It's color was dark chocolate with brush strokes of caramel. This Penelope will be accented with red Cocobolo along with the sunburst. You might say we're going for hot cinnamon fire cracker! Thanks for viewing! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 03-21-2014 at 04:53 AM. |
#9
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Couple more rosette shots
Here are a couple shots of the rosette going in and cutting the sound hole:
Thanks! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#10
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Here are a couple pics of the parts I'm selecting;
Here's a closer view of the headstock laminate. It's got the red I want and I love the figure which will really come out when I sculpt the pillow top; Thanks for checking it out! Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#11
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Looking good! What kind of cutter are you using there to cut out the sound hole?
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Brad |
#12
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Here we go again...oh, boy...another "Tree" build...my cup runneth over...
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Price is what you pay. Value is what you get. Warren Buffett |
#13
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wow!
max... |
#14
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Quote:
I got the circle cutter from Duluth Trading but, I don't think they offer it anymore. There are a bunch of similar ones out if you look for them. They usually require some modifications such as filing one of the bevels flat on the cutter blades. Once they are set up though, they work not only for the hole but, are great for scoring edges for clean rosettes cutouts. Thanks, Mark
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |
#15
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Thanks Billy Boy and Max!
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Mark Hatcher www.hatcherguitars.com “"A conclusion is the place where you got tired of thinking". Steven Wright |