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Old 03-28-2018, 11:20 AM
Steadfastly Steadfastly is offline
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Default Removing The Neck On Old Yamahas

What is the best way to remove the neck on old Yamahas that didn't use a glue that can be melted with heat?
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Old 03-28-2018, 11:34 AM
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You can't.


Yamaha had the "brilliant" idea of using a strong epoxy, thinking this would prevent the need for neck resets. All it did was prevent neck resets.

About the only (seriously) way is to saw the old neck off and bolt a new neck on (Google it)


If the guitar isn't a special instrument or sentimental, it is better as wall art than ever trying to remove these necks.
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Old 03-28-2018, 12:38 PM
backdoc backdoc is offline
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There was a guy once who posted on a different forum that he had a method for doing neck resets on the old Yammies. He posted some pics and I think he was successful, but it looked to be a huge job and I don't think he is doing that any more.

I have one from that era that needs a reset, but the guitar in perfect shape is probably worth a couple hundred dollars at most, so it just doesn't make sense for anyone to put in that kind of work to save a $100-200 guitar. Mine has some sentimental value, but I can hang it on the wall and look at it and rekindle the memories.
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Old 03-28-2018, 12:48 PM
Wade Hampton Wade Hampton is offline
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I’m chiming in to confirm what Fazool wrote: those Yamaha guitars were not designed with future neck resets in mind. Sawing the neck off and converting it to a bolt-on neck is about your only option. The only way that this could be even remotely cost-effective is if you were to do all the work yourself.

None of the guitar repair techs I’ve ever worked with will do that work, for the simple reason that in terms of bench time it costs considerably more than the guitar is worth.

Sorry, but it’s true.


Wade Hampton Miller
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Old 03-28-2018, 12:53 PM
TNO TNO is offline
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I think I saw somewhere that the biggest issue is the holes for the steam need to be drilled in a different place than most guitars.

If you search for "yamaha neck reset forums" on google it will filter for discussion results.
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Old 03-28-2018, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNO View Post
I think I saw somewhere that the biggest issue is the holes for the steam need to be drilled in a different place than most guitars.

If you search for "yamaha neck reset forums" on google it will filter for discussion results.
No. They used a non-heat-loosening industrial epoxy not traditional glue
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Old 03-28-2018, 01:05 PM
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Track down Jeff Suits and see if he's still doing bolt-on conversions for Yamahas - he's done a bunch. He posts here. What he doesn't know about the Yamaha neck joint isn't worth knowing.

Last edited by Kerbie; 03-28-2018 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Edited
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Old 03-28-2018, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steadfastly View Post
What is the best way to remove the neck on old Yamahas that didn't use a glue that can be melted with heat?
Actually most epoxies can soften if you get them warm enough. The problem in this case is that the temperature is high enough that you'd probably do other damage to the guitar.

I thought Seagull also used epoxy. ?
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Old 03-28-2018, 03:58 PM
HodgdonExtreme HodgdonExtreme is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athens View Post
Actually most epoxies can soften if you get them warm enough. The problem in this case is that the temperature is high enough that you'd probably do other damage to the guitar.
By definition, two-part catalyzed epoxy resins are thermoset as opposed to being a thermoplastic.

That is to say (with addition of heat) they will crumble and fail rather than become viscous again.

You're totally correct when you say the failure temperature for most epoxies will be in excess of the maximum safe temperature of the base materials the guitar is built from.
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:19 PM
Steadfastly Steadfastly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Athens View Post
Actually most epoxies can soften if you get them warm enough. The problem in this case is that the temperature is high enough that you'd probably do other damage to the guitar.

I thought Seagull also used epoxy. ?
Yes, all the Godin acoustics use epoxy. I think some of their electric guitars do too.

Thank you for all your replies in confirming what I thought.
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:54 PM
L20A L20A is offline
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How about the L series?
What glue is used on them?
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L20A View Post
How about the L series?
What glue is used on them?
The newer Yamaha guitars use a glue that can be softened with heat. Someone with more knowledge than me might chime in here but I think anything from the 90's on should be okay.
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Old 03-29-2018, 03:16 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNO View Post
I think I saw somewhere that the biggest issue is the holes for the steam need to be drilled in a different place than most guitars.

If you search for "yamaha neck reset forums" on google it will filter for discussion results.
I actually find what you describe, if you drill through the 15th fret straight down, you miss the join, you need to angle it forward about 4mm.

The old saying, here’s one I did earlier, Yamaha, you can see where I have angle my drilled hole.

Steve

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Old 03-29-2018, 03:22 AM
mirwa mirwa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steadfastly View Post
What is the best way to remove the neck on old Yamahas that didn't use a glue that can be melted with heat?
My favorite way on guitars with a stubborn glue join, is too machine the fretboard off at an angle, then make a new fretboard and fit it over the top of the old wedge shaped remnants.

Works a treat.

Machined off



finished job

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Old 03-29-2018, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mirwa View Post
My favorite way on guitars with a stubborn glue join, is too machine the fretboard off at an angle, then make a new fretboard and fit it over the top of the old wedge shaped remnants.

Works a treat.

Machined off



finished job

That's a novel way of fixing it.
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