Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodger Knox
My misunderstanding, I thought you meant it naturally flattened out AFTER it was glued. You're overthinking this, sanding the rims with the radius dish should provide the longitudinal arch for the back while the braces support the transverse arch.
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Actually that is what I was saying, I'm fairly sure that the natural spring in the back was stronger than the rigidity of the walnut sides and linings and thus the flattening moved the structure enough to push it out of square
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodger Knox
Try solid laminated linings on your next one, use three strips of 0.10" thick oak, it bends really easily at that thickness. You'll be surprised at how much more rigid it makes the rims. I made my own kerfed linings for my first few guitars, the death of 1000 cuts I called it. (BTW, there are about 1000 cuts required for dred linings). They were a pain to install, they broke at all the tight curves, and it was difficult to cleanly inlet the top bracing. I thought it would be easier to get thin solid linings to conform to the tighter curves, I could make each strip thin enough to bend easily, and put on as many as I needed to make up the necessary thickness. I've found that oak does not bend easily at 0.125", and at 0.08" it bends really easily, heat and water are barely necessary, 0.10" is the optimum thickness for oak. YMMV
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I guess solid linings are now on my list of things to try on the next one
in the meantime I got the back glued on today. in the few hours after it was taken out the mould, it didn't seem to have shifted or moved or flattened which is a good sign. The whole thing seems noticeable more solid than the previous guitar. At the moment i think thats possibly down to 3 things. A) Tasmanian seems to hold itself better than the walnut. 2) this guitar is better built. D) i've miscalculated somewhere (again) in this build and its all thicker and heavier than it should be.
I also trimmed the neck to shape. I think i'm about 0.5mm, or perhaps slightly more, too thin per side at the 12th fret and its probably enough that its going to ruin my flush fit neck to cutaway join. I'm hoping I can save it, if not its yet another ruined part of the guitar. If I hadn't just bought some more tools I'd probably be considering packing this guitar building in.
I then spent 3 hours trying to glue a bwb purfling to a binding strip (and completely and utterly and miserably failed 4 times using 3 different methods) so I have the purfling strip on the side of the guitar under the binding. There was a separate thread on this and the solution was that this is not the way to do it. Unfortunately it seems thats my only option at the moment and seeing as I have already (or will have) the bwb in several places on the rest of the guitar, if I forgo it in this area, it could look a bit weird.
Here's the back on and after the excess was trimmed away.
Untitled by
David Emm, on Flickr
and an alternative view
Untitled by
David Emm, on Flickr