I guess I'll weigh in here seeing that I am a big fan of Tru-oil, some may not be, but those that have used it, and have learned the proper way to apply it I'm sure think it is just about perfect for a guitars finish. While there are harder finishes to use, that doesn't mean it isn't a viable and sound finish for a guitar, a guitar moves and flexes much more than a bar top or hardwood floor, Tru-oil remains more flexible in my opinion and is less prone to cracking, and yellowing. Actually I've never seen Tru-oil crack and over the last dozen years or so I've used it on a variety of wooden items & quite a few guitars. It is primarily used on gunstocks and furniture to provide a lasting and durable finish that is easily repaired and maintained.
While not as hard as Behlen's Rock Hard, or some other varnishes, it has properties that I think belong to the guitar. And it makes a fine finish for a slick neck when buffed with steel wool.
When wiped on with a cloth in very light even passes, it builds very quickly and after only 5 or 6 coats, it begins to shine, no need to level sand or wear a respirator, and the finish becomes hard enough to play and keep playing after about 5 to 6 days, I typically allow about 45 minutes between coats at 65 to 70 degrees, and one of the nicest factors is if there is a discrepancy in the finish anywhere, a piece of dirt, scuff or scratch, simply sand the area and go back over it with no worries. I've not tried to tint the varnish, but rather I'll select an appropriate stain color and stain the woods, let dry for 24 hours and then start applying the Tru-oil.
I've had no problems with saturation on any hardwoods, and tops I simply seal first with pure egg whites allow to dry for about 2 hours and then sand with 400 grit, then apply the Tru-oil.
I still spray nitro and poly finishes, but for the look and feel I personally like, mine have a no fuss simple and light Tru-oil finish.
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