Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer
For instance: 1 7/8" at the nut, 2 5/16" at the 12 th fret, 54/64 thick at the 1st fret and 62/64 at the 10th fret, and a mild V (with a noticeable but not quite sharp transition) with a slight shoulder breaking onto the fingerboard.
This is a language everyone speaks, in measurements that anyone can make with a $20 plastic body veneer caliper. Plastic is hard to damage the finish with.
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Yup, then its all about connecting the dots and describing the over all shape as you describe. This is what I've done in the past and it's always seemed to work out.
Unless my client had some experience drawing, drafting, advanced woodwork knowledge etc. I be some what concerned about the accuracy of the template I was presented, two pencil lines can add up quick, and having a one dimensional representation may be deceptive...and well I can just envision a "but that's the exact size that you sent me" kind of thing
One thing I do ask is if there are any factory guitars that they know and are comfortable with, this certainly can help steer one in the right direction as far as what the type of feel they are look for.
I'm glad I make my own guitars because I had a bad hand injury long ago, and while I have complete function of my hand, I did loose some fingertip on my left middle finger, end result is I only feel comfortable playing necks that are as fat as a baseball bat, lol which I know most people don't like or want.So I think I;d have a hard time describing what I wanted shape/feel wise. The only professional I know of that likes fat necks is Steve Miller. Go figure