Quote:
Originally Posted by hat
right, but the bridge is on the top, or stressor side of the braces. Part of the cause of bridge peeling, and top warping. I am thinking of moving that stress to the underneath side (far side) or the most reinforced side of the top.
Think of it like this, you have a plastic bucket full of water. Will you try to pick it up by grasping the lid, or by the bottom of the bucket? ( I know, poor analogy)
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While you will reduce deflection of the bridge, I don't believe it's all that necessary - or even desirable, especially if you're after that vintage Martin sound (that most folks are after.) I don't even mind if my top gets a little bulge. In fact I build my tops almost perfectly flat (and VERY slightly ramp the upper bout past the UTB)... no solera, no dome, no radius dish for the top. Sure, it's a great look when a top has zero hump behind the bridge and looks like a perfect dome. But for my ears it doesn't produce a sound I prefer. Also I might be crazy, but I find the guitar plays stiffer (but can handle heavier gauge strings) when the bridge area is overly stiff.
I've retopped a couple plywood top guitars (and have one now) where the bridge had rotated at least 20-25 degrees, warping the top - and the bridge didn't release. Peel is not the problem if you glued the bridge right, and you have sufficient support under the bridge. It could be just 1-2mm past the back of the bridge if you want. Of course if you designed a flexible bridge plate that's another story.