[emmsone]

Originally Posted by Bruce Sexauer

About the truss rod and relief. You are over a thinking this. If you use straight grained and dry H mahogany for your neck and a typical profile and no truss rod and the then work the fingerboard dead flat, the strings will pull the neck into the closest approximation of the ideal relief 99 times out of 100. It's all part of the design concept.

My ideal for classical action height approximates steel string Bluegrass action: just a hair under 3/32 x 4/32.

I often do use carbon fiber in my classical neck, but I then have to create the relief.

Thanks Bruce. My plan is to use the second neck blank I have sitting here from a walnut-maple-walnut block that I cut my neck from my previous build from. One of the reasons I used this option last time around was that I found it pretty difficult to get hold of mahogany at all here in Switzerland. I'm sure there must be someone somewhere that stocks it, but it looks like to get some i'd have to import some myself and then, i'm not sure where its best to import it from.

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

If the thickness sander you are using is anything like mine, allow a few 1/10ths of a mm for sanding out the marks from the thickness sander.

Thanks Charles,
Actually the thickness sander seems to do have done an excellent job of not leaving marks previously, but it does only have 80 grit paper on it, so you do then have to sand it from that point up to the required grit.

Originally Posted by SnowManSnow

Tigers like that bender. Never ever thought of using an iron DUH.
So really all you have there is the inside bending mold... w lamps
Then use the iron w clamps
Rad

Interestingly enough, when I was bending my sides in the public workshop where I build, one of the other guys in there was looking at my bending iron and was asking why couldn't I just use a clothes iron instead. I think it might work fine for the lower bout but using it for the waist and cutaway might be quite tricky with it having flat base.