Quote:
Originally Posted by drphilj
Hi All
Many thanks for the comments. Now the titebond Hide glue is about 6 months old and has not been used. I do have titebond II and III. Which one would you suggest?.
I can make up some spool clamps for this job, keen to get it right. Sanding the join is a good point. Its very early morning here so latter today after sleep I have go.
Will keep you posted.
- Phil
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I know John suggests to use TItebond I, but I think titebond II will work just fine for this repair. The basic difference between I and II is that II has more solids in it, so will leave a thicker layer in between the pieces being glued if it is used "as is" from the bottle. These solids can be useful at times, if there is any gap at all that needs to be filled. Luthiers' greatest fear of Titebond II is that there will be more glue "creep" - ie: the two pieces glued will move relative to one another over time after curing. This is because these glues don't quite crystalize the way hide glue or CA will, and the extra solids which can result in extra glue thickness can introduce a thicker layer of glue causing more chance for creep to occur. IMHO, either titebond I or II can creep if the glue joint isn't tight. I use titebond II watered down about 10-15%, so I don't need to fear over thick glue layers, plus I am super up-tight about making really tight wood-to-wood joints, so I don't worry about glue creep.
Again, in the case of your guitar, since it isn't a super quality hand made axe, I don't believe you need to worry about running out to buy a new bottle of TB I just to get this crack right, and the extra solids of TB II might in fact help you out in this case.
Just my 2 cents...